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HMS Suffolk


World Naval Ships Royal Navy Cruisers Kent Class HMS Suffolk

[UP] - HMS Cumberland - HMS Cornwall - HMS Kent - HMS Berwick - HMS Suffolk

 

HMS Suffolk.  History of the cruiser HMS Suffolk, including, photographs of the ship and crew, as well as crew lists and cruise details.

HMS SUFFOLK. Built at Portsmouth Dockyard and laid down 30th September 1924. Launched 16th February 1926 and completed 31st May 1928. HMS Suffolk served in the Home Fleet 1939-1943, then Eastern Fleet 1943-1945. She was finally scrapped at Newport June 1948.

HMS Suffolk.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © MPL. Order Code  PHC712

HMS Suffolk, 1928.

A large image size 10" x 7" approx, is available.  Reproduced from the original negative / photo under license from MPL, the copyright holder.  A signed numbered certificate is supplied. Price £25.   Order photograph here   Order Code  XMP1254

Original republished © MPL Photograph (Postcard Size).  Price £5 Click here to order.  Order Code  MP1254

HMS Suffolk off Hong Kong, c.1930.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC490

HMS Suffolk c.1930.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © MPL. Order Code  PHC491

HMS Suffolk c.1930, possibly at Tokio.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC492

HMS Suffolk, May 1933.

Original Wright & Logan Postcard 1933 approx.  Price £14.  Click here to order.   Order Code  PHC493

HMS Suffolk in the Far East.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC494

HMS Suffolk, February 1937.  With Flying boat K8538.

Original Wright & Logan Postcard 1937 approx.  Price £18.  Click here to order.   Order Code  PHC495

HMS Suffolk pictured c.1936 

Original Wright & Logan Postcard 1936 approx.  Price £12.  Click here to order.   Order Code  PHC375   SOLD

HMS Suffolk.  Photograph taken over the stern of HMS Sussex.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © MPL. Order Code  PHC374

HMS Suffolk at Nanking in December 1929. 

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC376

HMS Suffolk, location unknown.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC377

HMS Suffolk - Libertymen leaving ship for the last time before sailing for China, Saturday 5th August 1933.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC837

Close up of some of the crew members from the photo opposite.

HMS Suffolk's Tour to the Far East c.1929 -1930 : Admiral Suzuki & Rear Admiral Meade.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC479

HMS Suffolk's Tour to the Far East c.1929 -1930 : Members of the Diplomatic Corps & Embassy.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC480

HMS Suffolk's Tour to the Far East c.1929 -1930 : Capt. G. Arbuthnot & The Earl of Airlie with H.R.H. The Duke of Gloucester

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC481

HMS Suffolk's Tour to the Far East c.1929 -1930 : Capt. G. Arbuthnot D.S.O. & Commander C.B. Simeon with Japanese Naval Officers.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC482

HMS Suffolk's Tour to the Far East c.1929 -1930 : The Earl of Airlie M.C. with H.R.H. The Duke of Gloucester.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC483

HMS Suffolk's Tour to the Far East c.1929 -1930 : Sir John Tilley, British Ambassador arrives on board HMS Suffolk.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC484

HMS Suffolk's Tour to the Far East c.1929 -1930 : The Earl of Airlie - Maj Gen Elles with Comdr C B Simeon on board HMS Suffolk.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC485

HMS Suffolk's Tour to the Far East c.1929 -1930 : H.I.H. Prince Chichibu of Japan arrives on board HMS Suffolk.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC486

HMS Suffolk's Tour to the Far East c.1929 -1930 : Capt. G. Arbuthnot D.S.O. greets member of the Diplomatic Corps.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC487

HMS Suffolk's Tour to the Far East c.1929 -1930 : The Earl of Airlie M.C. on board HMS Suffolk.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC488

HMS Suffolk's Tour to the Far East c.1929 -1930 : The Earl of Airlie M.C. & Sir John Tilley on board HMS Suffolk.

A reproduction of this original photo / photo-postcard size 10" x 7" approx available.  Order photograph here  © Walker Archive. Order Code  PHC489

Extracted from H.M.S. Suffolk “Nous Maintiendrons”

Officers Who Have Served In H.M.S. Suffolk

1933-1935

Name

Rank

Served On Ship

 

 

 

Sir Frederic C. Dreyer, K.C.B., C.B.E.

Admiral

(Commander-in-Chief, China Station)

January 34th-August 1934

H. M. Horne

Payr. Commander

(Admiral’s Secretary)

January 34th-August 1934

F. B. Tours

Lieut-Commander

(Flag Lieut-Commander)

January 34th-August 1934

G. P. Thomson, O.B.E.

Commodore 2/class

(Chief of Staff)

January 34th-August 1934

F. R. Mannin

Payr. Lieutenant

(Secretary to Chief of Staff)

January 34th-August 1934

D. N. C. Tufnell, D.S.C.

Commander

(Staff Officer (I) )

January 34th-August 1934

H. A. Rowley

Commander

(Staff Officer (Operations) )

January 34th-August 1934

R. C. Bayne

Commander

(Fleet (G) Officer)

January 34th-August 1934

A. V. S. Yates

Lieut-Commander

(Fleet (S) and W/T Officer)

January 34th-August 1934

E. F. B. George

Payr. Lieutenant

(Assistant Secretary)

January 34th-August 1934

M. A. McMullen

Payr. Lieutenant

(Duty in Admiral’s Office)

January 34th-August 1934

R. A. J. Owen

Payr. Lieutenant

(Duty in Admiral’s Office)

January 34th-August 1934

Errol Manners

Captain (in command)

(Flag Captain during period as Flagship)

July 1933

W. A. Whitaker

Commander

July 1933

A. L. Tidd

Lieut-Commander (G)

July 1933

J. H. Venville

Lieut-Commander

July 1933

I. R. Grant

Lieut-Commander (Pilot)

January 1934-August 1934

V. N. Surtees

Lieut-Commander

July 1933

J. T. Powell

Lieut-Commander (N)

(Fleet (N) Officer during period as Flagship)

July 1933

R. F. A. Redman

Lieut-Commander

(Fleet P. & R. T. Officer)

February 1934-August 1934

E. J. S. James

Lieut-Commander (T)

(Fleet (T) Officer during period as Flagship)

July 1933

G. A. Tilney

Lieutenant (Observer)

September 1934

C. H. Campbell

Lieutenant

July 1933

H. C. B. Coleridge

Lieutenant

July 1933

R. Whinney

Lieutenant

July 1933

J. H. Boteler

Lieutenant (Pilot)

October 1933-November 1933

J. N. Garnett

Lieutenant (Pilot)

August 1934

T. E. Docksey

Commander (E)

July 1933-November 1934

E. R. W. James

Commander (E)

October 1934

T. A. H. Walker

Lieut-Commander (E)

July 1933-December 1933

J. R. De M. Warren

Lieutenant (E)

January 1934

N. L. Evans

Lieutenant (E)

January 1933

E. G. Nixon

Lieutenant (E)

August 1933-June 1934

C. N. F. Usherwood

Lieutenant (E)

July 1933-January 1934

T. W. E. Dommett

Lieutenant (E)

June 1934

J. W. Christian Smith

Lieutenant (E)

August 1933

C. T. Brown, O.B.E.

Major, R. M.

(Fleet Royal Marine Officer)

January 1934-August 1934

S. G. Cutler

Captain, R.M.

July 1933

M. F. H. Rogers

Lieutenant, R. M.

July 1933

R. G. Howard. B.Sc., A.M.I.C.E., A.M.I.E.E.

Instructor Lieut-Commander

(Fleet Adviser on Education during period as Flagship)

July 1933

T. Gwynne-Jones

Surgeon Commander

July 1933-January 1934

A. G. Taylor. M.B., B.S.

Surgeon Commander

(Fleet Medical Officer)

January 1934-August 1934

A. E. Phillips, M.B. B.Ch.

Surgeon Commander

August 1933

C. G. Owen. M.R.C.S., L.R.C.P.

Surgeon Lieutenant

July 1933-October 1933

J. G. Vincent-Smith. M.A., M.B., B. Ch.

Surgeon Lieutenant

August 1934

C. B. Hughes

Payr. Commander

(Fleet Accountant Officer during period as Flagship)

July 1933

K. L. Dunn

Payr. Lieut-Commander

July 1933

A. D. Baird

Payr. Sub-Lieutenant

(Captain’s Secretary)

July 1933

W. D. F. B. Muspratt

Sub-Lieutenant

July 1933-November 1934

A. R. H. Walker

Sub-Lieutenant

August 1933-January 1934

S. Le H. Lombard-Hobson

Sub-Lieutenant

November 1934

H. Hogbern

Commd. Gunner

July 1933

F. W. Bowden

Commd. Gunner (T)

July 1933

F. W. Newbery

Commd. Shipwright

July 1933

J. G. R. Titheridge

Gunner

July 1933

B. J. Anslow

Gunner

July 1933

H. Jukes

Sig. Boatswain

January 1934-August 1934

W. L. Durn

Wt. Telegraphist

January 1934-August 1934

F. A. Riddolls

Wt. Engineer

July 1933-May 1934

W. Smith

Wt. Engineer

February 1934-December 1934

W. E. Honey

Wt. Engineer

July 1933

L. F. Reeve

Wt. Electrician

July 1933

R. D. Seabrook

Wt. Engineer

December 1934

S. Siddall

Wt. Ordnance Officer

January 1934-August 1934

T. Hoskison

Schoolmaster

July 1933

J. E. Poulden

Midshipman

August 1934-November 1934

R. N. Hankey

Midshipman

August 1933-November 1934

Hon. D. D. E. Vivian

Midshipman

August 1933-November 1934

K. V. V. Spurway

Midshipman

August 1933-November 1934

A. T. Darley

Midshipman

August 1933-November 1934

A. G. J. Goodhart

Midshipman

August 1933

D. W. Kirke

Midshipman

August 1933

W. A. W. Poland

Midshipman

August 1933

H. A. Stacey

Midshipman

August 1933

R. H. Hobart

Midshipman

August 1933

R. S. Hankey

Midshipman

August 1933

J. C. Carver

Midshipman

November 1934

M. C. Giles

Midshipman

November 1934

P. K. Horsey

Midshipman

November 1934

P. P. Smith

Pyr. Midshipman

July 1933

M. K. Overend

Pyr. Midshipman

August 1934

 

Extracted from H.M.S. Suffolk “Nous Maintiendrons”

Ships Company Of H.M.S. Suffolk

Name

Rating

Joined

Left

 

 

 

 

Brown, George J.

C.P.O.

July 1933

-

Eddon, James.

C.P.O.

July 1933

-

Gutsell, Arthr. H.

C.P.O.

July 1933

-

Hillman, James R.

C.P.O.

July 1933

-

Pettifor, Joe.

C.P.O.

July 1933

February 1935

Bailey, Wm. G

P.O.

July 1933

November 1934

Barnes. Chas. E.

P.O.

April 1934

-

Claridge, Jas.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Chadwick, Colin W.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Endicott, John H.

P.O.

July 1933

March 1935

Green, Walter A.

P.O.

July 1933

December 1933

Gorringe, Jas. R.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Grisdale. John.

P.O.

July 1933

April 1934

Hanlon, Chas. F.

P.O.

July 1933

March 1935

Hampton, Edwd.

P.O.

July 1933

April 1934

Hookham, John.

P.O.

July 1933

April 1934

Hills, Chas. G.

P.O.

December 1933

-

Knight, Wm. G.

P.O.

July 1933

June 1934

Lay, Harry.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Lamb, Wm. G.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Mitchell, Harry F.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Manser, Henry J.

P.O.

July 1933

June 1934

Miller, Albt. G.

P.O.

July 1933

December 1934

Moore, Wm. F.

P.O.

March 1934

-

McNally, Edwd.

P.O.

July 1933

-

O’ Brian, Jas. J.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Preston, Robt.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Pugh, Wilfred E.

P.O.

July 1933

September 1934

Rosser, Thos W.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Shalar, Fredk G.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Timpson, Abt. J. H.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Taylor, Chas.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Tompkins, Walter A.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Thomas, Rgd.

P.O.

July 1933

April 1934

Trevett, Jas. F.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Thomas, Regd.

P.O.

July 1933

April 1934

Trevett, Jas. F.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Thomas, Cyril E. F.

P.O.

June 1934

November 1934

Watts, John J.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Yeoman, Arthr. N.

P.O.

July 1933

-

Aris, Vivian J.

L. Sea

July 1933

November 1934

Barge, Thomas A.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Bowerman, Peter.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Batchelor, Regd. G.

L. Sea

July 1933

March 1935

Burgess, Geo. J.

L. Sea

November 1934

-

Cornford, Sydney L.

L. Sea

July 1933

June 1934

Chisham, Fred. E.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Cadogan, Roger.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Childs, Sidney L.

L. Sea

April 1934

June 1934

Galpin, Gordon C. A.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Helyer, Fredk. G.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Horstead, Chas. J. C.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Jones, Percy R. E.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

James, William P. V.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Lee. William G.

L. Sea

July 1933

June 1934

Lelliott, Arthr. E.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Meredith, Ernest R.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Midwinter, Harry S.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Milton, Albt.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Pearce, Leond. P.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Pybus, Arthr. J.

L. Sea

July 1933

April 1934

Perkis, Joshua E.

L. Sea

July 1933

April 1934

Robinson Fredk. D.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Ransome, Albt.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Reeds, Joseph S.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Speakman, Fred.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Stedman, John F.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Single, Abt. E.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Sexton, Edwd.

L. Sea

January 1934

-

Tweed, Jubilee.

L. Sea

November 1934

-

Whitney, Herbt A.

L. Sea

July 1933

-

Ayers, Wm. F.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Andrews, Chas. W.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Arkinstall, Wm. H.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Allen, Ewart O. A.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Arnold, Norman.

A.B.

August 1934

-

Bennett, Wm. E.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Bessey, Arthr. G. R.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Burgess, Harry.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Bailey, Horace W.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Berry, Fredk. A.

A.B.

July 1933

September 1934

Burke, Robt. L.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Bartholomew, Robt. E.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Bunker, Herbt, G.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Burden, Percy C. C.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Batchelor, Fredk.

A.B.

July 1933

October 1933

Barnard, Cecil R. J.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Birch, Sydney.

A.B.

July 1933

September 1934

Bloomfield, Albt. E.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Bowery, Eric J.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Browning, Vivian D.

A.B.

July 1933

February 1935

Ball, Richd. H. P.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Bird, Walter J.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Barber, Edwd. R.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Baker, Robt. A.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Bryant, Leond.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Buss, Chas. C.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Baker, Harry.

A.B.

July 1933

October 1934

Booth, Sidney E.

A.B.

July 1933

October 1934

Bax, Fredk.

A.B.

March 1934

-

Barrett, Albt.

A.B.

March 1934

-

Burrell, Reic J.

A.B.

July 1933

November 1934

Cosens, Wm. G.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Collins, Francis J.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Collins, regd.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Comber, Jas. D.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Casson, Geo.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Cooper, Chas.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Coombs, Regd. P. J.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Denny, ernest.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Dennis, ernest.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Dodsworth, Jas.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Denyer, John A.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Dunwell, W.n. S.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Davidson, Saml.

A.B.

July 1933

September 1934

Dowdell, Wm. F. S.

A.B.

July 1933

March 1935

Driscoll, John P.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Donnelly, Wm.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Dawkins, Albt.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Doughty, Regd. A.

A.B.

October 1934

-

Eyre, Herbt. G.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Eyres, Ernest.

A.B.

July 1933

November 1934

Edwards, Henry G.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Evans, Noel.

A.B.

July 1933

`-

Elder, Jas. C.

A.B.

July 1933

November 1934

Edom, Geo A.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Edwards, Geo. A.

A.B.

November 1934

March 1935

Fellingham, Fredk. J.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Freick, Wm.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Fell, Leslie J.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Farmer, Harry.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Fisher, Arthr.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Fairley, Geo.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Freeman, Laurance G.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Fenemore, Harry L.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Foster, Jas. C.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Franklin, Chas. F.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Gallop, Chas. R.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Gorey, Wallace M.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Godden, Arthr. E.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Gilmour, Wm. C.

A.B.

July 1933

September 1934

Giugh, Eric A.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Giles, Francis P.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Grant, Joseph.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Gosling, Jas. R.

A.B.

July 1933

September 1934

Garrett, Fredk. E.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Greenham, Geo E.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Hicks, Durley J.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Holland, Wm.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Heggie, Regd.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Hodcroft, Eric V.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Harris, Leond. A.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Harrison, Hugh V. D.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Haddenham, Daniel.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Hageman, John.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Hassett, Fredk. G.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Herridge, John H.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Hussey-Yeo, Alfred C.

A.B.

July 1933

October 1934

Holyoake, Fredk.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Heaton, Henry.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Hardingham, Herbt.

A.B.

July 1933

 -

Howard, Wm. J.

A.B.

July 1933

November 1934

Higgs, Wm. H.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Haley, Albt. G. V.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Hutchins, Jas. A.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Hartnett, Jas. J.

A.B.

July 1933

October 1934

Harris, Walter G.

A.B.

July 1933

November 1934

Hurst, Chas. W.

A.B.

July 1933

September 1934

Hayman, Clifford.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Hall, Wm. C.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Harrison, Geo E.

A.B.

July 1933

November 1934

Hadley, Geo. R.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Harkess, Wilfred A.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Harris, Jos. E.

A.B.

January 1934

-

Henderson, Alexdr.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Jacobs, Wm. E.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Jeffrey, Fredk. W.

A.B.

July 1933

November 1934

Johnstone, Alfred.

A.B.

July 1933

September 1934

Jeal, Jack.

A.B.

July 1933

-

King, Regd. V.

A.B.

July 1933

-

King, Saml. P.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Kent, Chas. S.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Kirkpatrick, Wm. T.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Knox, Wm. A.

A.B.

July 1933

December 1934

Kelf, Wm. M.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Kitchener, Robt. J.

A.B.

November 1934

-

Lamb, John.

A.B.

July 1933

September 1934

Lloyd, Robt. J. R.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Mitchener, Benjn T.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Matthews, Alfred C.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Martin, Leond. G.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Marler, Horace J.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Moss, Geo. F.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Moon, Walker.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Morley, Geo. R.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Myles, Wm.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Maycock, Ernest V.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Marchant, Wm. A.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Malcolm, Wm. L.

A.B.

September 1934

-

McCulloch, Robt. W.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Nicholls, Fredk. R.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Niorth, John.

A.B.

July 1933

-

O’Connell John F.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Olford, Chas W. S.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Oxlade, Phillip D.

A.B.

July 1933

-

O’Neil, Patrick J.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Pilgrim Fredk. G.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Price. Wm. D.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Perkis, Stanley G.

A.B.

July 1933

November 1934

Pollock, thos C.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Priest, Wm. C.

A.B.

July 1933

January 1934

Pullman Wm. E.

A.B.

August 1933

-

Pyatt, Herbt.

A.B.

January 1934

-

Potter, Fredk.

A.B.

November 1934

-

Raymond, Walter J.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Reading, Cecil A.

A.B.

July 1933

September 1934

Rycroft, John

A.B.

July 1933

-

Roots, Ronald C.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Southern, Joshua.

A.B.

July 1933

November 1934

Smith, Thos. H.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Staley, Thos. W.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Sherbut, Harold F.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Spain, thos. H.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Spurling, Henry R, G.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Sanderson, Chas.

A.B.

July 1933

September 1934

Smith, Jas.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Spearing, Arthr. E.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Stedman, Chas. T.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Stokes, Frank.

A.B.

July 1933

June 1934

Stemp, Arthr.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Still, Fredk. J.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Sparshott, Leond.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Seward, Alfred J.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Smith, Thos. W.

A.B.

July 1933

November 1934

Sheppard, Eric.

A.B.

January 1934

-

Sutton, Leslie.

A.B.

March 1934

-

Taylor, Thos. H.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Tanner, Ernest. B.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Treadwell, Thos. G.

A.B.

July 1933

April 1934

Thorp, Wm. F.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Trevett, Albt. H.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Thornton, Herbt.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Taylor, Harold J.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Threader, Wm. G.

A.B.

July 1933

June 1934

Taylor, Edwd. W. J.

A.B.

July 1933

September 1934

Tall, Chas. F.

A.B.

July 1933

June 1934

Valentine, Geo. F. W.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Upton, Archd. J,

A.B.

July 1933

September 1934

Vey, Sidney W.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Woolley, Geo. H.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Wagstaff, Leond. T.

A.B.

July 1933

September 1934

Wood. Geo.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Wintrell, Christopher T.

A.B.

July 1933

September 1934

Whittle, Wilfred J.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Watson, Wm. H.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Worsfold, Geo. G.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Webster, Henry G.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Whitby, Bertram T.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Walsh, Augustine.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Woodgate, Fredk. H.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Wells, Albt. J.

A.B.

August 1934

-

Ward, Sidney A.

A.B.

October 1934

-

Young, Stewart

A.B.

July 1933

September 1934

Young, Maurice J. L.

A.B.

July 1933

-

Busby, John H.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Blackley, Leond.

O’Sea

July 1933

September 1934

Bird, Francis J. G.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Blatch, Albt. J.

O’Sea

August 1934

-

Clegg, Jas.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Cobb, Leslie L.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Captaff, Frank.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Durrant, Lionel H.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Dentus, John.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Foggin, Ralph.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Frith, Raymond J.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Glaister, Richd. J. G.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Goldsborough, Albt. H.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Harding, Roland P. L.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Harris, Hebt. C.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Heyburn, Ronald.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Hunt, John.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Harris, Thos. J.

O’Sea

August 1933

September 1934

Jones, Norman P.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Jenkins, Albt.

O’Sea

August 1934

-

Locke, Frank.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Lewis, Wm. T.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Moss, Geo.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Molland, Eric K.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Marsh, John A.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Mears, Harold O.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

May, Ernest A.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Maxlow, Harry.

O’Sea

August 1933

September 1934

Marshall, Robt.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

May, Eric B. T.

O’Sea

August 1934

-

Mason, Chas.

O’Sea

August 1934

-

McKnight, Chas.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Noble, Thos. G.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Niel, robt.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Peacock, Jas.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Parsons, Frank E.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Rowbottom, Maurice.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Redman, Phillip H.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Ramsey, Tom.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Robinson, Jas.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Rose, Edwd. R.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Sinden, walter E.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Shier, Harry.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Shirley, Christopher.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Tuck, Aledr. F.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Sinden, Walter E.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Underwood, Ronald.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Webb, Geo. P.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Williams, John R.

O’Sea

July 1933

-

Whitehead, Chas. C.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Welch, Geoffrey.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Winlow, Cecil.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Young, Robt. J.

O’Sea

August 1933

-

Badham, Seymour W.

Boy

July 1933

-

Creek, Roy.

Boy

July 1933

-

Clark, Albt. J.

Boy

August 1933

-

Cook, David R.

Boy

August 1934

-

Collie, Chas. W. L.

Boy

August 1934

-

Craig, Sidney.

Boy

August 1934

-

Cook, Alfred W.

Boy

August 1934

-

Finnie, Peter.

Boy

August 1933

-

Graham, Henry E.

Boy

July 1933

-

Green, John R.

Boy

July 1933

-

Gordon, Eric T.

Boy

August 1934

-

Hopkins, Arthur.

Boy

July 1933

-

Horton, Raymond.

Boy

August 1933

-

Humphries, Aubrey A.

Boy

August 1934

-

Holmes, Eric.

Boy

August 1934

-

Hutchinson, Geo. L.

Boy

August 1934

-

Jardine, John.

Boy

August 1934

-

Luther, Robt. C.

Boy

July 1933

-

Legg, Stanley. C.

Boy

August 1934

-

Morton, Fredk. H.

Boy

July 1933

-

Mathison, John.

Boy

August 1934

-

Munday, Bertram W.

Boy

August 1934

-

Robinson, Geo, V.

Boy

August 1933

-

Richardson, Herbt.

Boy

August 1933

-

Randall, Herbt.

Boy

August 1934

-

Swales, Alfred.

Boy

August 1933

-

Sherpherd, Geo.

Boy

July 1933

-

Stockham, Herny V.

Boy

August 1933

-

Shepherd, Geo.

Boy

August 1934

-

Shane, John B.

Boy

August 1934

-

Smith, Robt. W.

Boy

July 1933

-

Wilkinson, Harry.

Boy

August 1933

-

Wade, Fredk.

Boy

August 1934

-

Wilson, Lionel A. E.

Boy

August 1934

-

Ward, Douglas.

Boy

July 1933

-

Bradley, Joseph A.

C/Sto.

July 1933

-

Cull, Stanley J.

C/Sto.

July 1933

-

Durrett, Thos. M.

C/Sto.

July 1933

-

Deacon, Regd.

C/Sto.

July 1933

-

Gee, John P.

C/Sto.

July 1933

-

Knight, Herbt. J.

C/Sto.

July 1933

-

Mondon, Wm. J.

C/Sto.

July 1933

-

Winter, Geo. J.

C/Sto.

July 1933

-

Audrain, Jas.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Altringham, Robt.

S.P.O.

January 1934

-

Bartlett, Albt.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Cotton, Wm.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Collins, Fredk. H.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Chandler, Alfred J.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Fieldhouse, John T.

S.P.O.

July 1933

January 1934

Hammond, Saml.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Howell, Thos. E.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Lumley, Jas. E.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Mitchell, Saml. R.

S.P.O.

June 1934

February 1935

Philpott, Chas.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Pyle, albt. H.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Stoyles, Sidney S.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Smith, Fredk. R. B.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Suitor, John E.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Williams, thos. J.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Wellstead, Alfred H.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Weeks, Wm. J.

S.P.O.

July 1933

-

Aburow, Henry W.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Alexander, Robt. A.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Archer, Thos. F.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Barclay, Geo.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Buswell, Frank.

L. Sto

January 1934

-

Cope, Wm.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Cairns, Kenneth G.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Delaney, richd.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Driscoll, Wm. J.

L. Sto

July 1933

January 1935

Drewery, Geo L.

L. Sto

March 1934

-

Fullarton, Peter T.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Hannah. Thos.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Holdaway, Wm. T.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Jay, John R.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Kaye, Fred.

L. Sto

March 1934

-

Long, Stanley O.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Moppett, Ernest.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Murphy, Daniel.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Patrick, Geo. V.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Rump, Thos. W.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Swabey, Jack.

L. Sto

July 1933

November 1934

Scott, Stanley O.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Saul, Thos.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Slade, Terence J.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Skull, Fredk. H.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Treagus, Alfred J.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Toone, Henry.

L. Sto

March 1934

March 1935

Taylor, Matthew G.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Walton, Harry.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Woodford. Geo.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Watson, Richd.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Willis, Walter S.

L. Sto

July 1933

-

Allan, Jas.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Aylen, Leond. T.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Atkin, Geo. W.

Sto.

January 1935

-

Bailey, Laurence R.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Bush, Arthr. W.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Bailey, Jas.

Sto.

July 1933

January 1934

Bishop, Chas. A.

Sto.

January 1935

-

Corbett, Cyril W.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Coffin, Thos. H.

Sto.

July 1933

September 1934

Collett, Jack A.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Crocker, Harold.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Cant, John W.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Cole, John C.

Sto.

July 1933

January 1934

Charlton, Edwin H.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Renwick, John J.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Rees, Evan G.

Sto.

July 1933

January 1935

Rushton, Thos. S.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Randall, Albt. J.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Ryans, Wm. H.

Sto.

January 1935

-

Syrett, Albt.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Sidney, Alfred.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Sedgeley, Geo.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Smith, thos. R.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Shirley, Harry.

Sto.

July 1933

November 1934

Stokes, Herbt.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Sherwood, Edwin W.

Sto.

July 1933

January 1934

Spratt, Wm. A. H.

Sto.

July 1933

January 1934

Styles, Geo. E.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Searle, Percy S.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Smith, Hugh.

Sto.

January 1935

-

Stewart, Alfred D.

Sto.

January 1935

-

Shaw, Bernard.

Sto.

January 1935

-

Soper, Albt. N.

Sto.

January 1935

-

Tippett, Wm. T.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Thompsion, Sidney A.

Sto.

July 1933

February 1934

Thompson, Geo. L.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Thompson, Richd. A.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Trevett, Chas.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Thomas, Richd.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Thomas, Frank W.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Tustain, Percy.

Sto.

July 1933

January 1935

Taylor, Edwin.

Sto.

January 1935

-

Thomas, Arnold G.

Sto.

January 1935

-

Vipond, Harold.

Sto.

July 1933

-

White, Thos.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Webb, Henry G.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Welch, John B.

Sto.

July 1933

January1935

Weaver, Ernest H.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Womack, Donald.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Wilson, Harry.

Sto.

July 1933

-

White, Wilfred D.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Wright, Wm.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Ware, Wm.

Sto.

July 1933

April 1934

Maunder, John I.

C. Mech.

July 1933

-

Phillips, Ernest C.

C. Mech.

July 1933

-

Peart, John R.

C. Mech.

July 1933

-

Willies, Edwd. C.

Mech

July 1933

-

Whitehead, Fredk.

C.E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Badcock, Arthr.

C.E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Wade, Geo. S.

C.E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Phillips, David A.

C.E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Abbott, Alfred J.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Baxter, Norman.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Birch, Edwd. L.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Goalen, Walter L.

E.R.A.

October 1934

-

Head, Geo. E.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

King, Thos.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Cawson, Wm.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Clark, John.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Corti, Robt. W.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Condliffe, Victor.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Cruickshank, Chas.

Sto.

March 1934

-

Clarke, John J.

Sto.

November 1934

-

Daniels, Edwd.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Diver, Fredk.

Sto.

July 1933

November 1934

Dyos, Wilfred.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Davies, Laurence.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Davis, Geo.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Donoghue, Thos.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Elliott, John E.

Sto.

July 1933

August 1934

Fulcher, Sydney.

Sto.

July 1933

December 1934

Greenaway, Laurance.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Godsall, Harry.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Gulliford, Robt. B.

Sto.

January 1935

-

Hall, Horace G.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Hayler, Harry E.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Higginson, Geo.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Hiscock, Wm. J.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Handy, Jack E.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Jackman, Frank.

Sto.

July 1933

November 1934

Jones, John J.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Jackman, Jas. A.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Keane, Bernard.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Kirk, Bernard.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Love, Ernest.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Laing, Job.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Lissimore, John R.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Landers, Edmond.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Laws, Matthew.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Lonsdale, Wm.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Maskell, Alfred H.

Sto.

July 1933

January 1935

Murrin, Charlie W.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Martin, Sidney.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Mossop, Chas.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Marsh, Benjn.

Sto.

July 1933

January 1935

Madge, John.

Sto.

July 1933

-

McCallum, Hugh.

Sto.

July 1933

March 1935

McCarthy, Wm.

Sto.

July 1933

-

McCloud, John.

Sto.

July 1933

-

McGrath, Jas.

Sto.

January 1935

-

McKee, Thos.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Nicholls, Percy.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Offord, Cecil H.

Sto.

July 1933

-

O’Neill, Patrick.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Parkes, Jos. W.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Pryall, Michael F.

Sto.

July 1933

January 1935

Payne, Arthr.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Powell, John.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Price, Ernest E.

Sto.

July 1933

-

Powers, Wm.

Sto.

September 1934

-

McGuire, Arthr. T.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Nightingale, Robt. A.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Osgood, Wm. G.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

O’ Neil, Laurence A.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Robinson, Clifford H.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Rothery, Gilbert.

E.R.A.

July 1933

January 1935

Styles, Sidney H.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Stapleton, Geo. M.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Swann, Henry U. S.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Sargent, Fredk. C.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Scanlon, Maurice W.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Twine, Regd. C.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Towle, Fredk. K.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Wilson, Cyril.

E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Sidey, Alfred T.

C.E.R.A.

July 1933

-

Aitken, Chas. A. J.

C.E.A.

July 1933

-

Lovell, Edgar J.

C.E.A.

July 1933

-

Adames, Ernest V.

E.A.

July 1933

-

Ansell, Chas. A.

E.A.

July 1933

-

Bellman, Howard A.

E.A.

July 1933

-

Bussey, Matthew W.

E.A.

July 1933

-

Hilliard, Carl P.

E.A.

July 1933

-

O’Neil, Edmund.

E.A.

July 1933

-

Stoodley, Harold W.

E.A.

July 1933

-

Sewell, Geo. H.

E.A.

July 1933

-

Edge, Ellis T.

C.O.A.

July 1933

April 1934

Berry, Wm. T.

C.O.A.

March 1934

-

Clark, Alexdr. B.

O.A.

July 1933

-

Clarke, Regd. H.

O.A.

July 1933

-

Cook, Albt.

O.A.

July 1933

-

Newman, Redvers.

O.A.

July 1933

-

Porteous, Iville.

O.A.

July 1933

-

Roberts, Richd. C.

O.A.

July 1933

-

Tribe, Albt. R.

O.A.

July 1933

-

Hudson, Lionel A. B.

O.A.

July 1933

-

Brown, Wm. W.

C. Shpt.

July 1933

November 1934

Burtonshaw, Wm. C.

Shpt.

July 1933

-

Evans, Wm. I.

Shpt.

July 1933

-

Harding, Fred. G.

Shpt.

July 1933

-

Haynes, Cyril T.

Shpt.

March 1934

-

Mayor, Douglas S.

Shpt.

July 1933

-

Martin, Chas. W. T.

Shpt.

July 1933

-

Popham, Geo. R.

Shpt.

July 1933

-

Saunders, Wm. H.

Shpt.

July 1933

-

Surrell, Albt. E.

Shpt.

July 1933

-

Sargent, Norman T.

Shpt.

July 1933

-

Huntley, Henry F.

Plbr.

July 1933

-

Patterson, Regd.

C.P.O.  C.k.

July 1933

-

Budgen, Herbt. J.

C.P.O.  C.k.

July 1933

-

Harding, Fredk. W.

C.P.O.  C.k.

July 1933

-

Gissing, John.

P.O.  Ck.

July 1933

-

Bradberry, Richd. J.

L.  Ck.

July 1933

-

Chalder, Jas.

L.  Ck.

July 1933

February 1935

Palmer, Geo. A.

L.  Ck.

July 1933

-

Piddell, Henry G.

L.  Ck.

July 1933

-

Roberts, Edwd.

L.  Ck.

July 1933

-

Liptrot, Fredk.

Cook

September 1934

-

Rice, John A.

Cook

July 1933

-

Railton, Jas.

Cook

July 1933

-

Waters, Eric.

Cook

July 1933

-

Davey, Cecil B.

S.C.P.O.

July 1933

-

Isaacs, Fredk. H.

S.C.P.O.

July 1933

-

Rumble, Regd. W.

Sy. P.O.

July 1933

-

Emmerson, Jas. W.

L.S.A.

July 1933

-

Ferry, Richd. H.

L.S.A.

July 1933

-

Harris, Eric R.

L.S.A.

July 1933

-

Jones, Thos. T.

L.S.A.

July 1933

-

Turner, Dennis.

L.S.A.

July 1933

-

White, Jas. E.

L.S.A.

July 1933

-

Pepper, Leond. G.

S.A.

July 1933

-

Storie, Regd. T. G.

Chief Writer

July 1933

-

Boucher, Fredk. C.

L. Wtr.

July 1933

-

Mcdonald, Edwd. A.

L. Wtr.

July 1933

-

Barclay, Cyril D.

M.A.A.

July 1933

-

Blagg, Herbert C.

R.P.O.

July 1933

-

Jones, Geo. W.

R.P.O.

March 1934

-

Jesty, Sidney F.

C.P.O. Tel

July 1933

June 1934

McLaren, John C.

C.P.O. Tel

July 1933

-

Chaproniere, Cyril L.

P.O. Tel.

July 1933

-

Bedford, Stanley H.

L. Tel.

July 1933

-

Browness, Geo. A.

L. Tel.

July 1933

August 1934

Criddle, Walter J.

L. Tel.

July 1933

-

Gott, Harold.

L. Tel.

July 1933

-

Bernard, Fredk. C.

Tel.

July 1933

August 1934

Beasley, Maurice.

Tel.

July 1933

-

Brown, Horatio S.

Tel.

July 1933

-

Child, Cecil L.

Tel.

July 1933

-

Crockford, Wm. E.

Tel.

July 1933

-

Ferguson, Robt. E.

Tel.

July 1933

-

Gent, Edwd. G.

Tel.

July 1933

April 1934

Garstang, Elisha.

Tel.

July 1933

-

Hutt, Phillip J.

Tel.

July 1933

August 1934

Miller, Wm. C.

Tel.

July 1933

-

McGilloway Geo.

Tel.

July 1933

-

Robinson, Alfred H.

Tel.

July 1933

-

Jones, Cledwyn.

O’Tel.

July 1933

-

Simpson, Stanley.

O’Tel.

January 1934

June 1934

Shayler, Edgar.

O’Tel.

July 1933

-

Sherpherd, W.m.

O’Tel.

March 1934

-

Seeney, Gordon.

C.Y.S.

July 1933

-

Scott, Arthur. J.

C.Y.S.

July 1933

-

Millard, Fredk. J.

Yeo.

July 1933

-

Dawes, Chas. J.

L. Sig

July 1933

-

Miller, Regd. S.

L. Sig

July 1933

-

Paul, Allen F.

L. Sig

July 1933

-

Trotter, Wm. M.

L. Sig

July 1933

-

Wood, Cecil H.

L. Sig

July 1933

 

Bishop, Alfred A.

Sig

July 1933

June 1934

Cranham, Leond. C.

Sig

July 1933

-

Cooper, thos. G.

Sig

July 1933

-

Bull, Fredk. G.

Sig

July 1933

-

Boxall, Arthur. W.

O’Sig

July 1933

-

Coles, Jas.

O’Sig

July 1933

August 1934

Wilson, Ronald. A.

O’Sig

July 1933

-

Long, Leslie.

Sig. Boy

August 1934

-

Ludford, Geo. H.

Blk.

July 1933

-

Osborne, Fred. A.

Blk.

July 1933

-

Fuller, Harold.

Jnr.

July 1933

-

Coalbran, Ernest A.

Sail kr.

July 1933

-

Harding, John.

Ptr.

July 1933

-

Pinder, Harry.

P.O. Tel.

August 1933

April 1934

Bond, Sidney W.

A.B.

March 1935

-

Harland, Sidney G.

A.B.

March 1935

-

Hellowell, Jas.

A.B.

March 1935

-

Weeks, Wm. H.

A.B.

March 1935

-

Williams, Edwd. E.

A.B.

March 1935

-

Jones, Evan P.

Ck.

January 1934

April 1934

Brodie, John.

C.P.O.

January 1934

August 1934

Hughes, Saml.

C. Mech.

January 1934

June 1934

Patey, Wm.

Jnr.

January 1934

August 1934

Nolan, Regd.

C.P.O. Wtr.

January 1934

August 1934

Burn, Edwd.

C.P.O. Wtr.

January 1934

April 1934

Gomm, john.

P.O. Wtr.

January 1934

August 1934

Eades, Arthr.

L. Wtr.

January 1934

August 1934

James, Gerald.

E.A.

January 1934

August 1934

Nash, Albt.

L. Sea.

January 1934

August 1934

Callen, Arthr.

P.O. Tel.

January 1934

August 1934

Wilson, Wm.

P.O. Tel.

January 1934

April 1934

Pond, Norman.

L. Tel.

January 1934

June 1934

Burt, Tom.

L. Tel.

January 1934

August 1934

Theobald, Arthr.

Tel.

January 1934

August 1934

Mathewson, Ernest.

Tel.

January 1934

August 1934

Bostrom, Henry.

Tel.

January 1934

August 1934

Jennings, John.

L. Sig.

January 1934

August 1934

Woodhead, Jas.

Sig.

January 1934

August 1934

Smallwood, Thos.

Sig.

January 1934

August 1934

Hawksworth, W.m.

O’Sig

January 1934

August 1934

Clayton, Alfred.

O’Sig

January 1934

August 1934

Breward, Andrew.

P.O.

January 1934

April 1934

Ingram, Fredk.

L. Sig.

January 1934

August 1934

Clark, Regd.

Tel.

January 1934

April 1934

Judkins, Harold.

Tel.

January 1934

April 1934

Makepeace, Walter.

C.P.O.

March 1934

August 1934

Crouch, Geo.

P.O.

March 1934

August 1934

McNair, thos.

O’Sig

March 1934

August 1934

Nuttall, Herbt. W.

O’Sig

July 1933

August 1934

Smith, Edwd. J.

A.B.

April 1934

August 1934

Ellis, Thos. H.

S.P.O.

April 1934

August 1934

Laughton, John.

P.O. Tel.

April 1934

February 1935

Smith, John.

C.P.O. Wtr.

August 1934

August 1934

 

Extracted from H.M.S. Suffolk “Nous Maintiendrons”

Royal Marine Detachment of H.M.S. Suffolk

Hanham, F. E.

Clr. Sgt.

19/7/33

 

Wigginton, P. T.

Sgt.

19/7/33

 

Richards, F. G.

Sgt.

8/6/33

 

Charlton, Thos.

Sgt.

17/7/33

 

Fisher, John.

Sgt.

19/7/33

 

Gale, T. R.

Cpl.

19/7/33

 

Buckler, J. H.

Cpl.

17/7/33

 

Beckett, W. A.

Cpl.

19/7/33

 

Moore, Alec.

Cpl.

17/7/33

 

Moore, W. J.

Cpl.

19/7/33

 

Lymburn, Andrew.

Cpl.

19/7/33

 

Anlezark, John.

Cpl.

19/7/33

Transferred to Cornwall 20/9/34

Collins F. W.

Cpl.

19/7/33

 

Fincher, D. C.

Cpl.

19/7/33

 

Edbrooke, W. J.

A/Cpl.

19/7/33

 

Barnes, A. J.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

March, A. W.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Richards, C. W.

Mne.

4/8/33

 

Mabbitt, H. W.

Mne.

20/7/33

 

Simcox, R. P.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Benson, Frank.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Aris, W. E.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Sandford, F. W. C.

Mne.

5/8/33

 

Clissold, W. J.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Clarke, W. J.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Halliwell, James

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Hobbs, Chas.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Allinson, R. E.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

White, Harry.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Kirkland, W. L.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Wilson, Jos.

Mne.

19/7/33

Invalided 22/1/34

Arnold, Robt.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Overy, G. T.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Ludgate, W. J.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Millard, B. R.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Mellish, I. F.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Lanfear, Horace.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Hughes, A. J.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Smith, R. C. E.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Taylor, F. C.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Muscroft, A. O.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Millson, B. C.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Strong, W. S.

Mne.

19/7/33

Discharged to R.N.H. Haslar 2/8/33

Richardson, James.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Wilmer, S. A.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Creffield, G. A.

Bugler

19/7/33

 

Batterbee, L. G.

Mne.

20/7/33

 

Shott, H. J.

Mne.

3/8/34

 

Stone, H. W. H.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Tomkins, H. E. J.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Deere, F.S.L.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Dodds, T. H.

Mne.

20/7/33

 

Maconochie, Thos.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Mann, Geo.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Houghton, Wm.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Forman H. R. G.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Lynn Norman.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Tucker, W. H. A.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Taylor, Robt.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Edlin, E. G.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Elliott, B. C. W.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Fairhurst, R. V.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Cousins, A. W.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Rouse L. W.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Mather, R. J.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Skinner, E. G.

Mne.

3/8/34

 

Tindell, H. W.

Bugler

19/7/33

 

Stroud, G. A.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Brigly, C. P.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Keene, J. A.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Hayman, C. F. G.

Mne.

19/7/33

 

Barnes, H. E. R.

Mne.

3/8/34

 

Morris, Moses.

Mne.

19/7/33

Chatham Div.

Robinson R. W.

Mne.

19/7/33

Chatham Div.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Royal Marine Band

 

 

 

 

Ridout, A. E.

B.M. 11

14/7/33

 

Every, W. H. A.

B. Cpl.

14/7/33

 

Heath, H. H.

Musn.

14/7/33

 

Oddy, W. H.S.

Musn.

14/7/33

 

Smith, H. P.

Musn.

14/7/33

 

Jackson, Fredk.

Musn.

14/7/33

 

Willows, J. H.

Musn.

14/7/33

 

White, E.V.

Musn.

14/7/33

 

Salvage, W. E.

Musn.

14/7/33

 

Colbourne, M. N.

Musn.

14/7/33

 

Thorpe, R. G.

Musn.

14/7/33

 

Pope, E. R.

Musn.

14/7/33

 

Spencer, W. J.

Musn.

14/7/33

 

Pollard, A. G. E.

Musn.

14/7/33

 

Reid, John.

B/Boy.

14/7/33

 

 

Cin Cs. Staff, Orderlies and Printers.

Warwick, C.D.

Po

Sgt

Printer Sgt.

30/1/34

4/4/34

Relieved

Knill, Fredk.

Ch

Sgt

Printer Sgt.

1/4/34

29/8/34

To Kent

Tottman, A. C.

Ch

Mne.

Printer

30/1/34

4/4/34

Relieved

Willis, A. J.

Ch

Mne.

Printer

1/4/34

29/8/34

To Kent

Patterson W. D. W.

Ch

Mne.

Printer

30/1/14

4/4/34

Relieved

Alton, Wm.

Ch

Mne.

Printer

1/4/34

29/8/34

To Kent

Leftley A. C. K.

Po

Mne.

M.O.A.

31/1/34

29/8/34

To Kent

Newman, E. A. J.

Ch

Cpl.

I/C. Orderlies

31/1/34

29/8/34

To Kent

Clark, H. G. W.

Ch

Mne.

Clerk

31/1/34

28/6/34

Discharged Home

Park, F. V.

Ch

Mne.

Orderly

31/1/34

28/6/34

Discharged Home

Minter, E. W.

Ch

Mne.

Orderly

31/1/34

29/8/34

To Kent

 

Sick Berth Staff

 

Roach, Albert P.

S.B.C.P.O.

July 1933

Moore, Edgar

S.B.P.O.

July 1933

Hull, George H.

S.B.A.

July 1933

 

Extracted from H.M.S. Suffolk, Third Commission

H.M.S. Suffolk

           The ship was recommissioned at Portsmouth on July 19th 1933.  It was beautiful summer’s morning and the officers and ship’s company were assembled on the upper deck to witness the breaking of the Pendant.  Captain Errol Manners spoke a few words about the ship which was to be our home for the next two or three years and brought to mind the traditions which all who sailed on her hoped to carry on.

           On July 24th we proceeded to Spithead to carry out a full speed trial.  Onboard with us were 5 officers and 27 men of the Suffolk Regiment who had accepted our invitation to come to sea for the trials.  This was the first opportunity we had of meeting members of our “Chummy Ship”.  We were pleased to hear they enjoyed the trip, and were sorry their stay had to be so short.

           The trials were successful.  This bold statement means much more than at first appears.  It was but four days before, that the ship reccommissioned, therefore we take off our hats to the whole of the Engine Room Department for the undoubted effort they must have put into the preparation.

            It is believed that the trials were of assistance to the Commander inasmuch that they gave the opportunity to hold a much longed for water carnival.  All the dust and dirt of the dockyard refit, all the empty boxes of the last commission, disappeared down the chute and over the side under the masterful eye of the Chief Boatswain’s Mate when once past the Nab Tower.

            On the 26th we returned to harbour for ammunition.  After spending two days at the Dolphins the ship was brought alongside North Slip Jetty, much to the relief of everybody who had to bring stores onboard.   

            The trials being over there was removed activity in preparing the ship for sea, and on August 5th, after giving a farewell party to wives and friends on the previous day, we left for Spithead to sail a day earlier than the date arranged.

            Sunday 1300 the anchor was weighed, the band played, and many eyes gazed towards the shore as Portsmouth disappeared into the summer haze.

            The Bay was calm with fog off Ushant.  Cape Finisterre was reached about noon on August 8th and, except for misty weather, we had an uneventful passage to Gibraltar, arriving on August 10th.  Judging by the number on deck everybody was interested in the “Rock”, this monument to Britain’s prestige, but the ship only stayed a quarter of an hour; just long enough to receive a mail.

           The passage from Gibraltar to Malta occupied just over three days.  The weather was splendid although a trifle hot, so the rig was changed to all whites.  In the evening deck tennis and hockey were in full swing and after dark the new “talkie” machine was tried out.

            Malta was reached about 1800 August 13th and the ship went straight to a buoy in the Grand Harbour.  Entry was difficult owing to the liner Corfu lying with her bows across the entrance.  Many went ashore to see the “Land of Goats, and Bells and Smells or, as the shipping companies more picturesquely put it “The Island of Romance”.  Whichever of the two the place may be, it is certainly interesting and all the nations into whose possession it had come have left their mark on it; from the Phoenicians who lived there as long ago as 1000 B.C., down to the Knights Hospitallers who fortified Valetta and built its palaces, and finally the British who have done their best to supply the blessings of justice, education, sanitation and health besides bringing trade and prosperity to a primitive race.

            A notable event from the ship’s point of view was a cricket match between the Ward Room and Warrant Officers and the Gun Room, who staved off defeat by a last wicket stand by Sub. Lt. Sinclair.

             Early in the afternoon of August 15th we left Malta to carry out the first shoot of the Commission, which consisted of 8 in Sib-Calibre firing at a Pattern 6 target, also H. A. burst short practice.  The passage of the Eastern half of the Mediterranean was uneventful except for a little rough weather to which some of the Boys succumbed.

           

Port Said

            On arrival at Port Said the usual native traders flocked around the ship in their picturesque shabbiness causing much amusement and interest for those who had not been that way before.  Perhaps the most interesting personality was the Gully Gully man, who cam4e onboard to entertain us with most skilful feats, producing live chicks from thin air or from the lining of the waistcoat of some unsuspecting onlooker.

            During our short stay a cricket match was played against the local cricket club, who won five wickets.  There was also tennis against the International Sports club; but, as this club produced some really first class players including a Greek Champion who had been a Davis Cup finalist, the ship’s team only managed to win one match.

            Five thirty the next morning saw us bound for Suez.  It was a fairly easy passage during which we made fast three times to allow other ships to pass.  The next stage of the journey was rather uncomfortable steaming down the Red Sea at 12 knots with a following breeze.  It was a relief when we arrived at Aden early in the morning of the 25th.  On leaving Port Said a Deck Cricket Competition was begun.  Fourteen “parts of ship” entered for this.

 

Aden

            The stay at Aden was only fourteen hours, but during that short time we were lucky to get a hockey match arranged and the allocation of another hockey ground and a football ground.  In the hockey match the officers beat the R.A.F. by 2 goals to one.  The other matches were ship’s trials.

            The final of the deck cricket was contested between Aden and Colombo.  One team was composed of Engine Room Chiefs and P.O.’s and the other consisted of Royal Marines.  The Marines led on the first innings, but were dismissed for practically nothing in the second, and the result was a win for the Engine Room.

            Although Aden is a dismal place to look at, it is an important seat of trade.  About a quarter of a million camels come to the port every year with produce from Yemen; coffee, gums and spices.

            The British took this important coaling and oiling in 1839 after cruelty to shipwrecked mariners by an Arab Chief.  It is first mentioned in 588 B.C. when the merchants of “Eden” brought riches to Tyre, and was a prosperous place in medieval times.  In the first century A.D. the Romans built a system of cisterns for rainwater.  Many have fallen into disrepair but we have restored some and they are still in use, supplemented by the distillation of rainwater, wells sunk 120 feet into the solid rock and an aqueduct from the Arab Village of Shaikh Othman. 

            This village is 8 miles away on the mainland to which Aden is joined by a sandy strip.  The peninsula is a drear looking place for it is a natural fortress of volcanic origin and has the colour of dusty brown lava.  The Europeans live at Steamer Point while the natives, Arabs, Indians, and Somalis have a quarter of their own.

   

Colombo

            The Monsoon was blowing when we left Aden and we rolled across the Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean for five days.  Ceylon gave us the first glimpse of tropical beauty.  Colombo harbour, where we anchored, although artificial, is a superb stretch of glistening emerald water while on the landing stage the Oriental colours of the natives costumes show up brilliantly in the sunlight.

            A landmark of the place is Adam’s Peak 7370 feet in height with a sharp cone and shape so even that, once recognized, it cannot be mistaken.  Although Colombo is a fine town, those who were fortunate enough to take a trip to Kandy, the ancient hill capital of the island saw the best of Ceylon.

            The drive provides most varied scenery and temperature ranging from the tropical heat of the coast, through the more temperate clime where tea is grown breezes of the highlands.

            There is an abundance of coconuts, and when a stop is made to admire the scenery a small boy usually rushes forward with a nut from which he deftly cuts the top with one stroke of his knife, offering you the cool milk for a drink.  The coconut is known as the universal provider of the East.  It supplies the native with food, drink, fodder, rope, mats, manure, and the roof to his cadjan huts, fences, wood, light, and oil..

            Rubber and tea are two other commodities much in evidence; a stop can be made at a tea factory to see how the leaves of this fragrant plant are selected and prepared.  The road winds up and up 2000 feet until Kandy is reached.  This is an important place of pilgrimage for Buddhists for here is the famous Temple of the Tooth said to enshrine one of the teeth of the Gautama Buddha.  More interesting than the temple is the library with its peculiar books written on palm leaves strung together like a Venetian blind.  The High Priest is a most courteous old man, who gladly shows you the facile way in which these books are written.  Holding a leaf of the Talipot palm between his thumb and finger he scratches on the letters with his thumb and nail, which is peculiarly pointed for the purpose, after which an acolyte rubs in Indian ink to make the writing stand out.

            Another sacred object is the Bo-Tree, said to be grown from the branch of the tree at Gaya in the Ganges valley, under which Gautama rested somewhere about 288 B.C.

            Far finer than any of the sacred sights is the one which nature provides in the beautiful lake surrounded by magnificent trees covered with the glory of the “Flame of the Forest”.  In Colombo itself plenty of sport was provided, the results of the principal matches were as follows: -

 

Cricket

Suffolk v Hawkins                   lost 88 runs to 119

Suffolk v Ship’s Company Staff & Department lost by an innings and a few runs.

 

Football

“Suffolk” Boys v “Colombo” Boys           Won 3 goals to nil

Ship’s Company v Colombo                    Won 3 goals to nil

Royal Marines v Colombo R. Ms             Won 6 goals to 1

“Suffolk” v “Hawkins”                              Lost 2 goals to 4

 

Hockey

Officers v C.H. & F. C.                             Lost 0 goals to 5

 

Water Polo

 

Ship’s Team v C. H. & F. C.                     Lost 2 goals to 3

 

            Many took the opportunity to visit Mount Lavinia, a delightful spot about 8 miles from Colombo, where they could bathe in the shelter of a coral reef.  Ceylon is certainly a place of beauty.  Among its products are parts and previous stones; we should have liked to linger in its luxuriance.

 

Singapore

            Leaving Colombo on September 5th we entered the limit of the China Station on the 9th and arrived at Singapore 0800 September 11th.  This place came into our possession in 1824 thanks to the foresight of Sir Stamford Raffles, who arranged for its purchase from the Sultan of Johore for £12,500 and a life rent of £5000 per annum.

            It is an island 27 miles long and 14 broad with clay soil resting on sandstone and granite.  This is not good soil; the luxuriant vegetation is due to the most heat, which makes the climate very, trying to the European residents.  It produces coconuts, Gambier, tapioca, cacao, aloes and fruits, but its chief importance lies in the fact that it is the emporium for British trade in the East Indies.

            The ship stayed an extra two days to carry out the operation of landing a detachment of the Wiltshire Regiment and to send some ratings to H.M.S. Cornwall which arrived on September 13th.

            That day started by a torpedo plane attack by the R.A.F.  Their efforts were very spectacular.  Flares were dropped round the ship, when they came in and fired their torpedoes, one of which damaged our propeller.  Following that the darkened ship steamed stealthily in just before dawn to land the soldiers.  The shore batteries picked her up with their searchlight, and according to the umpires, most of the landing party were slaughtered.

            Whilst at Singapore a good many games were arranged including cricket, football, water polo, and in spite of the hot weather, even rugger.  The Rugby match was against the Wiltshire Regiment.  The ground was in good condition and a fast game ensued considering that both teams were playing their first match of the season.  The soldiers deserved their win 5 points to nil showing better combination all round.  We have some very promising material however and should field a good side shortly.

            On leaving Singapore in the early morning of September 15th the R.A.F. carried out a torpedo attack on the ship.  Except for the exception of a typhoon, which fortunately did not reach us, the last stage of our journey was uneventful and we arrived at our destination at 0730 September 20th.

 

Hong Kong

            We remained alongside at Hong Kong, landing sports parties almost daily until October 1st when a typhoon warning made it necessary to go to a buoy.  The following Tuesday we went to sea for gunnery and torpedo exercises carrying out 8 in. full calibre full charge and reduced charge shots, night exercises with 4 in. star shell, and torpedo runs, returning to harbour on Thursday night.

            During the next fortnight the ship was at sea for the purpose of torpedo and gunnery practice and combined exercises with destroyers; this week ends being spent in harbour.

            One notable sporting event at this time was the winning of the Naval Officer’s Scurry by Lieut. Whinney.  His horse “The Loafer” did not live up to its name o this occasion.  During one of our visits to Tolo, the Bandits shown in the photo were known to be in the vicinity of Tai Po.

            A landing party was sent ashore to deal with them.  Unfortunately the sailors found that they were dealt with themselves, for the bold brigands took up positions behind rocks and up trees from which they sniped the attacking platoon and “saw them off”.

            However the Bandits agreed to accompany them onboard for they did not wish to miss the pipe “Hands to Supper”.

            The next event interest was Navy Day, which took place on October 28th; the ship was open to visitors and about 3700 came onboard, the majority being Chinese.  All the arrangements for the day were under the direction of Lt. Comd. Venville.

            Besides doing all they could to show the visitors what life in one of H.M. Ships is like, a demonstration of diving and use of Davis Gear for escape from submarines was given by the ship’s staff.  Also Lt. Cdr. Powell ran a Cinema in the Dockyard in which ‘A Life on the Ocean Wave’ was depicted.

            A popular feature was the bookstall where souvenirs and very interesting and well-illustrated programmes could be obtained.  The fact that great interest was shown serving in the Ship was evidenced by the fact that no less than 200 of these wee brought for the purpose of sending to friends at home.  During the afternoon our Dance Band provided the music for The Dansant, which took place in the Tamar. 

            While mentioning the attempt to interest our brothers ashore in the Service, the Ship’s efforts on the occasion of Trafalgar Day must not be forgotten.  Lt. Cdr. Surtees was busy for weeks training a team of Boys for a display of the Hornpipe, which they gave at the Naval Dance at the Peninsula Hotel, where they received tremendous applause, their performance being greatly appreciated.

            The same day H.M.S. Suffolk and four selected destroyers were dressed with Nelson’s signal, and later illuminated ship and gave a searchlight display.  After that we went to sea for the more serious business of torpedo firing and 8 in. full calibre shoots, retuning to harbour on November5th for the Dockyard to commence the alterations necessary for the transfer of the Flag.

            On November 20th the Commander-in-Chief of the China Station, Admiral Sir Frederick Dreyer came onboard.  After walking round the ship, he addressed the Officers and Ships Company, reminding them that each individual was an ambassador for his country; as the natives would judge Britain by the impression made upon them by her representatives with whom they came into contact.

            Another event in connection with the Commander-in-chief in which the ‘Suffolk’ took part was the Inspection Under Arms at Happy Valley on December 19th.  Besides our activates at sea and on shore during the last two months of the year, social duties when in harbour were not forgotten.  Coming from England to a place new to many of us we wished to make some effort to extend hospitality to those who had already welcomed us ashore.  With this object in view a The’ Dansant was held on the quarter deck about once a fortnight.  For the sake of the younger generation, baldheads and grey hairs were few and far between at these attractions, although some of the more senior officers helped to make it a success.

            On the afternoon of November 24th U.S.S. Augusta arrived at Hong Kong and was welcomed in the usual service style; her officers being entertained at an “At Home” onboard the same afternoon, and full arrangements were made for the sporting activities of her ship’s company.

             December 25th was spent in the spirit that ships on a foreign station always enjoy on a Christmas Day.  The Captain and Commander, assisted by the ‘funny party’, were greeted with cheers as they went round the various messes to sample the Christmas fare and admire the decorations which helped us to remember that the festive season was here although we were a long way from home.

            Before leaving Hong Kong the final of the inter-part football was played, resulting in a win for the Quarter-deck Division who beat the runners up, the E. R. Chiefs and P.O.’s, by two goals to one.  The royal Mariners, who secured a splendid victory over the Topmen in both cases, won both the inter-part whalers and cutters races.

 

Southern Cruise 1934

             On the morning of January 9th we left Hong Kong.  It was a beautiful day and the two ships made a fine picture as they steamed out of harbour, “Suffolk” flying the flag of the Commander-in-Chief followed by the “Kent” with her paying off pendant streaming in the breeze.  The journey to Singapore was not eventful except for rough weather that caused a nasty roll; but as we had all gout our sea legs by this tie it did not worry anybody.

            Several day and night exercises were carried out en route, including 8 in. full calibre firing and an attack by torpedo bombing planes from the Singapore Base as we approached in the early hours of Monday 15th.  Owing to the bad visibility they were unable to discover our hereabouts and we crept up the straights in the morning mist to the Naval Base, where we entered the huge floating dock to have the bottom scraped in readiness for the 6000 miles cruise in front of us.

            Very bad weather was experienced during the time in dock, according to the local inhabitants, the worst for 33 years.

            In spite of the inclement weather many took advantage of inspecting the wonders of this splendid dock, reputed to be the largest of its kind in the world.  Those showed every hospitality to us ashore; their tennis courts were placed at our disposal, and they very kindly gave their personal attention to showing us round the work in progress at the Base.

            The night before we left, the Ship’s Company concert Party played their part in entertaining friends from the shore, and their efforts were very much appreciated.  The docking having been completed by 0600 Friday19th the ships went up to Johore to oil ad proceeded to sea to carry out night exercises with the Air force.

            On the last day of the month the ‘Suffolk’ became Fleet Flagship; the Commander-in-Chief, Sir Frederick Dreyer, being received onboard with due ceremony and his flag hoisted at the mainmast.  The next day we left Singapore for Batavia.  En route the “Line” was crossed and another important dignitary in the person of King Neptune arrived onboard.

             He sent his ambassador over the forecastle on the memorable night of 1-2-34 to welcome us to his domains, and he himself together with his Queen, officials, and courtiers appeared next morning, receiving a right royal welcome from the captain and ship’s company.

             Assisted by the court barber he soon got to work on the initiates who, led by the Captain, provided a rollicking entertainment for those upon whom he had previously conferred the freedom of the deep.

             As the Captain entered the Royal Presence he was greeted; “Aha!  Captain Errol Manners of His Britannic Majesty’s Most Illustrious Ship ‘Suffolk’”.  Then in a very impressive and dignified manner the Master of the rolls read Royal Warrant:

 

Before my court thou hast appeared,

I trust the lower deck is cleared;

That every living soul aboard

May hear the charge against thee called.

Thou always art at evolutions:

Don’t think thy crew are full of Kruschems?

And when they’ve painted ad scrubbed with soap

Out of thy funnels thou poorest black smoke,

Damping all thy “flatfoots’ ardour.

No wonder they’re glad to be in harbour.

For this thou must pay Neptune’s toll, and may my bears have mercy on they soul.

 

 Splash

 

            The Bears having dealt with the Captain in a right royal manner, the rest of the novitiates were given a warm welcome to the Southern Hemisphere.

 

Shellbacks All

            I hope this little story doesn’t give you any pain I’ve never told it you before, so I’ll tell you once again.  It tells of one day’s merriment, of joy that was sublime, of how the dear old ‘Suffolk’ crossed the ‘festive Line’

            We knew old Neptune would be there, we’d heard the night before.  When up the hawse pipe for’ard became his own Ambassador Demanding that we stop the ship, and his commands obey and make all preparations for ‘His Majesty’ next day.

            The morrow dawned both bright and clear, and for;ard we all mustered.  And there we saw the famous court around the capstan clustered-

            The Doctor and the Barber, and the Master of the Roll, Like a lot of hard up coasters who have just come off the dole.  A crowd of rampant roaring bears were squatting up there too, you’d have thought the “Sufferin ‘Suffolk’” had opened up a zoo, and then before our very eyes there came a vision fair, a graceful, slithering Amphitrite had climbed the guard rails there.

            Policemen and Ambassador now made the court complete, and to see their ‘Bond Street’ costumes-it surely was a treat.  Then to his ‘Royal Majesty’ they gave the ready sign, and one hand promptly tugged away at a tarry hemp bowline.

            The band struck up a “Seadog’s Air” and Neptune’s climbed on deck like a cow with a blinking musket, with his robes wrapped round his neck.  Talk about a chorus girl all dressed up for a show!  No wonder that, ere “came the dawn”, the stormy winds did blow.

            Eventually we all got aft, and orders were presented, some of the most amazing ones that ever were invented.  Our Admiral before the court, upon his bended knees, received from Old Man Neptune the “Freedom of the Seas”.  Our Captain and the Chief of Staff became “Shellbacks of the Briny”  the order our commander got was of the “Bluebell Shiny”; then “Buffer” stepped up gingerly, he looked so spoiled and pampered.  And lo!  He got Order of “the Succulent Foaming Tankard”.  These orders all presented, the Court it then repaired.  To the baths, way in amidships, was eager eyes all glared.  The hungry bears were waiting beneath the barber’s chair as men unceremoniously came tossing through the air. 

           Our Captain and our Officers were first to make the grade and there they had to answer the charges that were made; the barber in his element was smacking round the soap-it tasted like a mixture of old socks and tarry rope.

            The Officers completed, they started off by messes.  To give us a taste of Neptune’s grace and his bears fond caresses; and what a taste they gave us!  It tickled them to death.  To see all us poor blighters gasping for blinkin breathe.  The Chief Cook and the Buffer and the Sergeant Major too were given special greetings by Neptune’s motley crew; and quite a few vowed there and then, as they stood at Neptune’s door.  That they’d treat subjects kindly, now and for evermore.

            Time wore on; the work progressed; the pace it was a killer-one greeting I shall never forget they gave old Dusty Miller; for they were there awaiting his body from above, for they worshipped their dear instructor, and they wanted to show their love.

            If that was love they showed him, please cross me off as been, it was the most endearing passion that I’ve ever seen, but Dusty came up smiling, saying Boy’s I am quite sure I’ve had all the love I want from you and I’ll never ask for more!

            And so we were invested with “His worship’s” Royal Degree; we can all grow hairs upon our chests, us Shellbacks of the sea.  But that same night at quarters a familiar pipe did sound-“Fall in on deck in any rig, and double the whole way around.”

            And so my story, shipmates, has drawn unto its close; but if e’er you’re sad and weary, or troubled and morose, let your thoughts drift away to that glorious day of sunshine, soap, and brine.  We spent in the dear old Suffolk when we crossed the festive line.

 

Java

            Arriving at Batavia the usual official calls were exchanged and salutes fired.  Then a round of entertainment started.  The next day a sailing race between the boats of the Dutch, English, and French warships in the port was arranged.  In this the “Suffolk” won the laurels, gaining the 1st, 2nd and 4th places.  The winner was Lt. Cdr. Venville sailing the galley, followed by Mid. Stacey in the cutter.  The 3rd was M. de Monillac of the French Cruiser Primauguet, and 4th Pay Lt. McMullen.

            There was also a swimming competition in which the Dutchman shone, and a rugby match won by the “Suffolk” by 14 points to 9.  Receptions were held on the “Suffolk” and the Dutch ship ‘Java’, and every might hospitality was extended to us by the English residents ashore, their club, the BOX, being a favourite rendezvous.  The Dutch community also gave a dance and the following literal translation from a local newspaper gives some idea of the good feeling that existed between the Dutchman and us: -

 

“Gala Festival Eve in the Military Club ‘Concordia’”

            “An attraction which was generally appreciated was the performance of a group of sailors of H.M.S. Suffolk who danced a “Jig” to a perfection which would have turned the famous “Tiller Girls” jealous.”

            “Sir Frederick Dreyer, who was all the time in lively conversation with the Governor, smiled on the “Tars” who in there “bell bottoms, denied their sea legs”.

            Batavia is well planned; there are two parts, the old Batavia and the new city Weltevreden where the bungalows are set in the midst of pleasant gardens.  In the remote background, at a respectful distance, and hidden by enclosures of cabbages and palms, are the Kampongs of the natives, drawn like a girdle round Weltevreden. 

             The older part of Batavia is situated near the water and is occupied chiefly by business houses and factories, and the residences of the natives and Chinese.  An extra day was spent there, and when the time came to sail on Thursday, everybody felt they were leaving some good friend behind.

            The weekend February 9th-12th was spent at Sourabaya where, one hour after our arrival, and ‘At Home’ was held onboard.  Sourabaya, the greatest commercial port of Java, is situated at the mouth of the Kali Mas (Golden river) facing Madura Island.  Besides two or three thousand Europeans, there is a very large Chinese population (35,000).  The Chinese, who practically hold a monopoly in certain produce, transacts the main volume of business.

            The city is throwing out new quarters along both banks of the Kali Mas.  The Europeans have not entirely abandoned the ancient city.  Their luxurious villas with wide gardens, grouped about the mansion of the President at Simpang, contrast with the old sumptuous, gloomy buildings.  The Red Bridge connects this district with the quarter where the wealthy Chinese live, and there is an Arab quarter, which is nothing more than a jumble of sordid houses.

            The Dutch Officers and English residents very kindly arranged motor trips to Prigen, a delightful spot where one could bathe in cool mountain water like liquid turquoise.

            The “Suffolk” was again victorious at rugger winning by 25 points to 5.  Although this was a decided victory for the ship, it must be remembered that very few play the game in this trying climate.  Our opponents in gathering together a fifteen from the small English community showed great keenness.

            On Sunday the ship was open to visitors and gaily-coloured boat lands arrived until the tropical rain hampered their movements.  The same evening the British Community provided a concert for the Ship’s Company.  The hospitality was so lavish that there were a few wrecks next morning when we left for Bali.

 

Bali

            Bali “An Earthly Paradise” so we were told before we got there.  Nature has certainly endowed the isle with luxuriant vegetation and a beautiful supply of tropical fruits, but living in such a paradise appeared to demand a large amount of hard work.  Men, women, and even children are occupied bending over the tender plants in the rice fields and toiling along the roads with heavy burdens on their heads or slung from bamboo poles across the naked shoulder.

            The native villages, picturesque though they are with their assembly of mud huts surrounded with low brick walls, hardly come up to the standard of comfort and cleanliness expected in paradise; although the people themselves were seen washing in the rivers every evening after the day’s toil.

           The walls surrounding the temples are ornamented with carvings in stone; very good examples of native craftsmanship, repair, as if Siva-the Destroyer, whom the natives worship, has been busy at his own shrines.

           From Laboen Amoek, where the ship lay at anchor, many took cars to Denpasar, which boasted a museum of native art and a fine modern hotel run by the K.P.M.  Steamship Co. In the grounds of the hotel a native orchestra played on their peculiar instruments.  Twenty or thirty men squatted on three sides of a square formed by carved wooden stands supporting gongs and dulcimers.  The players were led by a man beating on a drum, who sat in the centre of the fourth side of the square.

            The playing was done with wooden hammers with which they produced a very tuneful rhythmic music.

            On the way to Denpasar a stop was made at the Temple of the Bats which was built in front of a cave, the lair of thousands of bats hanging in great bunches from the roof.  A cracker let off by an obliging attendant set them fluttering around, but the sickly odour emanating from the cave did not tempt one to linger.

            A very kindly act was performed by a Native Prince who came onboard to see the Admiral an brought as a gift a bountiful supply of the choicest fruits of the island.

            Besides the tropical lowlands there are more temperate highlands in the interior.  A trip to Kintomani takes one up about 5000 feet.  Here is seen a volcanic crater 35 miles in circumference containing Lake Batoer in one corner and, jutting up near the centre, another active crater sending forth whips of smoke.  The old crater and edges of the lake are covered with verdure, but the vicinity of the active crater is strewn with black cindery lava from the last eruption in 1925.

            At Kintomani, alongside this scene of devastation, an English rose was blooming, and when it came to saying good-bye to Bali, many felt that simple flower was the sweetest sight they had seen on the island.

 

Flores

            On February 19th we arrived at Ende on the island of Flores, where some were fortunate enough to visit the Kilemoetoe Lakes.  A start was made at 6-30 a.m. so as to get the view before the clouds came up in the afternoon.  The way led up through a beautifully wooded valley with a mountain torrent at the bottom.  The beauty was enhanced by the variety of trees amongst which were many different kinds of palms.

            The road wound up and up, first one side of the gorge and then the other, crossing incredible bridges made of a few sturdy palm trunks, and each covered with a thatched roof.  It was hard to believe that they were strong enough to carry a motorcar.

            Up and up, and round and round we went, enjoying every inch of the scenery, past native villages or isolated native huts, so primitive that they did not even have a hole in the roof to act as a chimney, but let the smoke percolate through the thatch.

            Unlike Bali, Flores is unspoilt by tourists.  The people are of a more primitive type and are armed with bows and arrows.  Many of them crouched up against the rocks by the roadside and looked scared as the car went by.

            Eventually the road ended near the top of the volcano, and ten minutes walk took us to the spot where the three crater lakes could be seen.  It is probable that the world does not offer a similar sight anywhere else.  The lakes are each two or three hundred yards across with deep precipitous sides.  In one case the sides are vertical and perfectly smooth, just as if they had been made in cement.

            The most remarkable thing is that one lake is a dark blood red in colour, next to it, separated only by a wall of sulphur, is a blue lake, and a few hundred yards further away a green one.  Alongside the blue one is a volcanic fissure belching forth a cloud of sulphur and sprinkling the surface of the water with yellow powder.  It can be imagined that, when there is great activity, the whole surface gets covered with yellow dust, hence the report that one of the lakes is yellow.  The three colours, so near together, yet so distinct, provide a unique spectacle.

            Another interest at Ende was shark fishing; two were caught, each about 8 ft. long.  The Royal Marine Band gave a performance ashore which was much appreciated and in return a native bamboo band came onboard to amuse us.  They played some of their native dance music with remarkable skill on their primitive instruments.

            When the time came to leave Ende on the following Thursday we felt that our contact with the place had been very friendly.

 

Australia

            Arriving at Port Darwin on February 24th we were glad to meet some of our own kith and kin.  The Administrator Colonel Weddell, came aboard shortly after we anchored, and the same evening Admiral Dreyer dined with him ashore.

            When we saw the town of Darwin with the sparsely populated Northern Territory beyond, we were filled with admiration for those who keep the Flag flying in that isolated corner of the Empire, which was discovered by Captain Stokes of H.M.S. Beagle in 1839 who named it after the great naturalist Charles Darwin.

            A dance was given in our honour and the next day an “At Home” was held onboard.  That was the last day in the Port; such was the success of both these parties that everybody said what a pity they were not held earlier.  The ship’s company found a ready welcome ashore; they played a football match winning by 5 goals to 1, and the Royal Marine Band, which played at the match and on two other occasions, was appreciated even more than usual.  The mutual good feeling which was so evident throughout our stay was shown by the crowd, that assembled on the pier to give the last liberty boat a good send off, singing “My Friends are your Friends”.  One of the inhabitants took such a fancy to us that he spent the rest of his life aboard; you can see by his photo that he was a very pleasant shipmate.

 

The Spice Islands

            After Port Darwin 3 days were spent at Banda Neira, where pleasant walks were taken ashore amidst the nutmeg groves, or climbing the active volcano Gunong Api.  The sea there was particularly clear, the bottom could be seen easily although we were anchored in 7 fathoms of water.  Many brilliant coloured fish were swimming around, some with bright blue heads and brighter yellow tails.

 

Celebes

            At the next place, Kema Bay, we only stayed 1 day.  During that short time the Resident sent to take a party to a reception at his house at Menado.

 

Borneo

            After the fleeting visit to Kema Bay, we arrived at Sandakan, where our fellow countrymen again welcomed us.  Although we could see no spectacular volcanoes rising into the clouds, the scenery of Borneo was more varied than many of our other ports of call with the exception, perhaps, of Ende.  The roads led up hill and down dale with many a scene reminiscent of Britain, but in the hinterland was jungle.

            We enjoyed several good sporting events and a dance at the Residency and to say farewell an entertainment was held onboard. 

            The next morning we sailed for Brunei where we only anchored until 1900, when we made for Miri.  After circling round off Miri  we headed for Jesselton and anchored for the night off Turtle Island.  The name inspired a party to pull ashore in the hope of a catch, but we did not have turtle soup for dinner the next night.

            We finally arrived at Jesselton on March 17th.  Our friends ashore were not long in asking us to a dance at their club, and next day many invitations were given to visit those living a little way out.  The Admiral went with a party to Beaufort; others went to lunch with the District Officer at Papar, and some paid a most interesting visit to a rubber estate.

            The following day a gymkhana was held.  In spite of the rain it was great fun; a special feature being the buffalo race, new experience for most and an amusing one for all.

            Notwithstanding the deluge a good number came onboard that night to say goodbye, for we were leaving early the next morning.

 

Philippines

            After two days at Sea, we arrived on March 22nd at Manila our last port of call for the cruise.  The same afternoon the British residents had a reception at the Manila Club.  That was the beginning of a very hectic but enjoyable round of dances and parties.

            We were glad to find the U.S. Ships Augusta and Black Hawk there.  We had previously been in company with them at Hong Kong, so many friendships were renewed and we enjoyed the hospitality of the American Army and Naval Officers at their magnificent club.

            Manila is an interesting place with its old Walled City and many fine buildings and green open spaces, the latter being improvements achieved during the period of American rule.

            Several of the Staff took the opportunity to spend a day or two at Baggio where the cool mountain breezes were very welcome after three months in tropical waters.

            The great wall of the ancient Spanish city is as sturdy and solid as it was the day it was completed over 300 years ago.  This defence was constructed against marauding pirates who roamed the China Sea.  The moat has been filled in, and a modern nine-hole golf course has replaced the beach where the buccaneers landed.  The drawbridge have been removed, but the four great iron gates still stand as monuments to an era of struggle.

           Inside these old walls are many spots of interest.  Narrow crooked streets wind among the blockhouses and fortresses.  Calle Real is the main thoroughfare flanked with innumerable little native shops.  American and Fillipino troops, now occupy the old Fort Santiago and the famous Cuartel de Espana.  There is also a great Roman Catholic Cathedral, Santo Tomas College, opened by the Dominicans in 1611, and the Santa Clara Convent, known as the “house of the Living Death” whose twenty nuns are never allowed to see or have speech with outsiders during their lives.

            Modern Manila is noted for its cigars; a visit was arranged to one of its many factories to see the native tobacco moulded by deft fingers into the smoker’s delight.  The stay at Manila was perhaps the most strenuous of the whole cruise from a social point of view; everybody from the Governor downwards did his or her best to fill in every moment of spare time with entertaining us. 

            We said goodbye to the Philippines on March 29th arriving back in Hong Kong two days later.  The following three weeks were spent alongside the dockyard wall preparing for the Northern Cruise.  Only one day was spent at sea for gunnery and a night landing exercise at Gin Drinker’s Bay; and on April 23rd we proceeded northwards arriving at Amoy on the 24th.

            The ship anchored off the island of Kulangsu, the International Settlement, where members of the Amoy club entertained us.  The following day most of the European Community came onboard for a tea dance and children’s party.  A gang of pirates much to the delight of the younger generation who visited their lair to be branded and given presents of choclate and cap ribbons met them.  When the time came to go home, they were very reluctant to leave the slide, which had been rigged from “X” gun deck to the quarterdeck.  This was so popular that many youngsters were loath to leave it even for tea.     

            Whilst ashore some of us were fortunate in seeing a very spectacular Chinese procession, which only takes place on such a large scale once every 50 or 60 years.  The gods from one of their temples paid the triennial visit to their relatives in the other temples of the island.  They were placed in elaborate red lacquer sedan chairs decorated with large festoons of paper money and carried in procession; their chairs swaying violently from side to side to indicate that the occupant was a living spirit.  Every now and then, when the bearers were tired, the god stopped swaying to indicate that he wished call a halt, so that crackers might be let off.

            Accompanying them in the procession were gaily dressed children on horseback representing carious national heroes, and the piece de resistance was an enormous dragon with swaying head and lashing tail, borne on the backs of 30 or more men with 16 children, arrayed as characters from national plays, perched upon it.

 

Chusan & Pu Tu

            Leaving Amoy on the 29th, the next day our annual depth charge was dropped, whether it was in deference to Joss, or as a greeting to Neptune Rex, whom we have not seen since crossing the line, remains to be told.

            Chusan, where we arrived on May Day proved to be the Scapa Flow of the Far East, the only difference being that the Sea is yellow with Yangtze mud.  The place of interest in the archipelago is the island of Pu Tu, a place of pilgrimage for Buddhists.  All the inhabitants appear to be either monks or those whose occupation is to make the decorative articles for the temples and for sale to pilgrims.  They are cunning workmen in stone, making most artistic designs from odd lumps of rock with their primitive tools.

            As only a few went in the motorboat on the first day, it was hoped to take the ship round to Pu Tu so as to give everyone an opportunity to see the temples, which contained enormous images of Buddha in fine gold lacquer, but Neptune evidently was not satisfied with our depth charge as a royal salute, for we were fog bound three days and did not arrive at Woosung until the following Monday. 

 

Chinkian

            We only stayed there an hour or so, to pick up our long expected mail, before proceeding to Chinkiang.  Here some went ashore to Silver Island, but with the exception of a temple, there was not much to see, although the island looked picturesque from the river.

 

Nanking

            The next day was spent at Nanking the largest walled city in the land with a history dating back 2000 years before the founding of the Ming Dynasty (1360 A.D.) and retained as the seat of government by one of China’s greatest sons, Sun Yat Sen.

            Several parties went ashore the same afternoon.  Taking a car from the bund, the entrance to the city looked very imposing as we approached the gateway, a massive structure in a wall 50-70 feet high the scars of many a war.  The old city, like many other places in China, was ramshackle, but a great development is taking place and fine buildings are going up everywhere.  The modern Chinese architecture has a style of its own which still retains the picturesque ness of their pagodas and temples whilst being adapted to modern requirements.  Their new Post Office is a magnificent building in a style, which, although new, adds to the dignity of their ancient city.

            Passing through the busy town, which only occupies a portion of the area enclosed by the wall 25 miles in circumference, we left by the gate near the Lotus Lake and soon caught a glimpse of Sun Yat Sen’s Mausoleum, gleaming white marble set in a garden on the side of Purple Mountain, but, before reaching there, we came to the avenue of stone animals guarding the Ming Tombs, and then to the Ming Tombs themselves, which are kept in surprisingly good order by the new regime.

            There was not time to visit the other Mausoleum that General Chiang Kai-Shek, the present War Lord in those parts, is having, built in order that his fame should be handed down to posterity. 

 

Ng’an-King

            Early the next morning we continued our journey, anchoring for the night at Ng’an-King, one of the centres of Communism.  Many were the interesting sights as we proceeded up the river, the highway where wayfarers from all the country served by its vast length are met.

            The Chinese have not many resources, but they are resourceful.  Nations ply their trade up and down the river in fine ships, but the lumber trade is in the hands of the Chinese themselves.  The Chinaman sees no reason to waste a ship on timber that will float by itself, so he makes enormous rafts on which he builds a small village with about a dozen huts complete which chickens, fires, and the washing hanging out and lives rent free as he floats down the river to deliver his goods.

            Why take ducks to market in a cart?  They have a better way in China where they tie the leg of one to the leg of the next and let them swim down the river under their own steam; a man in a sampan looking after them like a shepherd with a flock of sheep.

 

Kiukiang

            We learnt several new ways of carrying out evolutions by the time we reached Kiukiang, where we found a small colony of white folk who came onboard for a little party arranged on their behalf.

 

Hankow

            The final stage of our 700-mile journey into the interior brought us to Hankow, once a fishing village but, since it was opened to foreign trade in 1861, grown to a city with a population of a million and a half.  The British, French, Russian, and Japanese have their own quarters.  Although the British concession was rendited in 1927, virtually the British Community controls their quarter of the settlement as before.

           Five pleasant days were spent at Hankow during which another children’s party was given the slide again proving a tremendous attraction.  The R. M. Band played at the Cosmopolitan Club, a unique fraternity in which the only condition for membership is the ability to speak English.

           For the two days journey from Hankow to Nanking, which we started on May 17th, Sir Meyrick Hewlett, His Britannic Majesty’s Consul General, took passage with us.  He kindly consented to give a very interesting and instructive lecture on the events leading to the present situation in China during his 25 years in the Consular Service out East, which left us with a feeling of pride in the way in which Britons had met the difficult situation of the past few years.

           Arriving at Nanking the Admiral gave a dinner party that was attended by the British Minister the Hon. Sir Alexander Cadogan, Admiral S. K. Chen and five members of the Chinese Cabinet including the rime Minister Wang Ching Wei.

 

Shanghai

            The stay at Nanking was not for long; the next day found us at Woosung waiting for the tide to proceed up the Whang-poo to Shanghai.  Many had been looking forward for this week at Shanghai but the relaxation seemed to be rather strenuous.  The opportunity was taken to grant 48 hours leave, which was much appreciated.

            Amongst the social activities was an “At Home” to the zero Clubs, that band of brothers who Shanghai to fight for their Motherland in the Great War.  A return call to their headquarters, decorated with trophies if the war and souvenirs of ships in which they had been entertained, proved most interesting.  There is oen unfortunate incident to record; on Sunday May 27th the day before we left, Jackie died, the cause of his untimely departure is not known but it has been suggested that he found life at Shanghai too much for him. 

 

Tsingtao

            At Tsingtao, our next port of call, attempts were made to get down so regrets practice in real ernest, but it turned out to be a period of uncertainty.  Owing to the critical condition of Fleet Admiral Marquais Togo, it seemed likely that the ship would be sent to Yokohama and on 3rd, after receiving that Japan had lost her famous sailor, we made hast there at 17 knots.

 

The Funeral Of Admiral Togo

         The journey led through part of the Inland Sea where we had our first peep at Japan, green islands studded with small towns with their typical Japanese houses contrasting with a surprising background of “dark Satanic mills”.  It was strange to see a forest of chimney’s spring up in the midst of a township which was perhaps 50 years ago the home of quiet handicrafts.

          At one place, where the channel narrowed to about a quarter of a mile in width, a good view of Shimonoseki on one side and Moji on the other is obtained.  Most of the chimneys were smoking; the quaysides were well lined with fine ships, Japanese, with the exception of a sturdy “blue Funnel”, and the scene brought home very forcibly the meaning of Japanese competition.

           There was no indication of the nature of the products turned out by these factories with the exception of the brewery, which advertised its nectar in English as well as Japanese.     

            We arrived at Yokohama in the evening of June 3rd in foggy wet weather, but thereafter the land of the Rising Sun lived up to its reputation.  On the following Tuesday the funeral of Fleet Admiral Marquis Togo took place.  The Commander-in-Chief and Officers and a detachment of 40 ratings and Royal Marines attended it from the “Suffolk”.  The smartness of this detachment in the procession called forth much favourable comment.

            The ceremony was simple but impressive, the Chief Ritualist being the son of the deceased.  The Shinto religion does not lead to overwhelming grief for the loss of so great a leader, because the belief I that his spirit lingers still to guide and direct the nation even as he did when in the flesh.

            Offerings of various kinds of food and delicacies and a prayer of petition were made to the departed, after which a sprig of the sacred Tamakushi tree was laid before the shrine by every one of the mourners.

            The attendance of so many Japanese and foreign officers and diplomats in full dress made a colourful and unforgettable picture, we considered ourselves very fortunate to be present on such an historic occasion.

            Those who had a glimpse of Japan for the first time were struck by the orderliness and evidence of scientific progress.  The Japanese people were very friendly and did their utmost to make us welcome.  When Friday came round we were sorry to leave and, seemingly, they were sorry we were going for, if rumour is correct, tears were being shed by the young ladies on the quay who flocked to wave farewell.

 

Wei Hai Wei And the North

           The voyage to Wei hai wei took three days and, arriving there, an endeavour was made to settle down to regatta practice in earnest, but Wei hai did not live up to its peaceful reputation; for several days bad squalls were experienced when all boats had to be hoisted.  At this time the ship stood by to take action against Chinese pirates who had attacked the S.S. Shuntien and taken captive the principal passengers, including Lieuts. Field and Luce.  Aircraft from H.M.S. Eagle dealt with the culprits very effectively and secured the release of the prisoners, so the “Suffolk” was not called upon to participate.

            June 26th the day of the Regatta came round all too quickly and, although our crews entered with their spirits undampered by their obvious handicap, their lack of training told against them on the first day.  On the second day the Boys, Veteran Officers, and Bandsmen all of who gained second place in their race rowed very good races. 

            The Regatta over, we got down to more serious work once more, proceeding to sea each week for gunnery and fleet exercises. 

            Ashore the china fleet Football League matches and the competition for the Wei hai wei shield were started.  The Boy’s team was very successful, beating the ‘Cornwall’ by 9 goals to 1, the ‘Adventure’ by 15: nil and, later in the season, the ‘Kent’ 6: 1.

            The night before we left Wei hai wei on July 25th the Commander-in-Chief was dined by the Ward Room Officers.  In his after dinner speech he spoke in praise of the “Suffolk” and said that he would be sorry to leave when the time came for the transfer of his Flag.

 

Chinwangtao

            The next day, proceeding northwards, we made for Chinwangtao where we spent a week.  Here a goodly number took the opportunity to spend a few days in Peking, catching a glimpse of the Imperial China of by gone days.  Chinwangtao itself, the busy headquarters of the Kaiping Mining Association, was not without interest.  A visit to the glass works, one of the largest in the world, was well worthwhile.  Many took the train to Shanhaikwan to see the Great Wall of China, a wonderful structure that, started by the emperor Ying-Chang in 324 B.C., has stood the ravages of time for over 2000 years.  It is 1500 miles long, from 12 to 24 feet high, and is studded at intervals with fortresses and towers.  The outer course of stone on top of the wall is made of white granite. 

            This wall skirts the northern boundary of china proper, crossing hills, valleys and rivers, and was built to check the inroads of the fierce and barbarous Tartars.  It is said that every third man in the empire was required to work upon it, and that it was constructed in 5 years, though the emperor did not live to see its completion.  Any workmen who died during the building were buried in the wall. 

 

Back To Tsingtao

            Leaving Chinwangtao we crossed the Gulf of Chihli and steamed down the Yellow Sea to Tsingtao, stopping at Wei hai wei at 0615 one rainy morning to take onboard some boys and a few Marines who had just arrived from England in the recommissioned Kent. 

            Tsingtao might well be described as the “Riviera of china”; it is quite unlike any other place along the coast with its “Plage”, houses in European style and ultra modern hotels.  Our friends in the U.S.S. Augusta were there at the same time, and we enjoyed their fellowship in the usual round of entrainments ashore and onboard.  Owing to the reported approach of a typhoon we left Tsingtao on august 7th earlier than anticipated, much to everybody’s regret.  Arriving at Wei hai wei the fleet remained in harbour until the storm had passed.

 

Wei Hai Wei

             The following week three sporting events took place.  The first was the football match in the semi-final for the Wei Hai wei shield in which the ship, after a good struggle, lost to the ‘Eagle’ by 2 goals to nil.

            At the same time the Fleet Cricket Competition was in progress.  In the first round we beat the ‘Kent’ by 240 runs to 206, 108 of which were scored by Capt. Cutler and 50 by L.S.A. Emerson.  In the semi final, in spite of the fact that Capt. Cutler took 6 wickets for 67 runs, the match was lost to the ‘Eagle’ by 323 runs to 167, those representing the ship were: -

Capt Manners, Capt. Cutler R.M., Pay. Comdr Hughes,

Lt. Comdr. Powell, Lt. (E) Christian smith, Pay. Mid.

Smith, L.S.A. Emerson, S. A. Pepper, A. B. Cosen,

Tel. Shayler, Cpl. Collins R. M.,; Scorer-Cpl. Moore,

Umpire-Mne Clissold.

 

            Later on Aquatic Sports were held.  The “Suffolk” had competitors in nearly all the finals but the Small ships teams eventually won the cup.  However it was not all play for the ship that week, for the Commander-in-Chief carried out his annual inspection on Tuesday and Friday.  Everyone knows the hard work that the preparation for this important event entails; the ship’s Company put their heart and soul into it and, judging by the Admiral’s encouraging remarks, came through the trial with flying colours.

 

The inspection was followed by a week of exercises at sea.

 

            On shore there was intensive training for the ship’s sports, which took place on August 27th.  They ended in a very close struggle in which the Engine Room Department beat the Royal Marines by the narrow margin of 1-œ points.  The next event was the Inter-Part Marathon won by the Q.D. Division; followed by the Fleet Marathon in which the “Suffolk” tied with the ‘Cornwall’ for third place.

            Another milestone of the commission was passed on August 30th, when the Commander-in-Chief transferred his flag to H.M.S. Kent.  In a farewell speech he spoke of the happy time he had spent in the ship, and especially mentioned the sportsman like spirit shown by the Ship’s Company.  He left the ship taking the tiller of his galley with a crew of officers stroked by Commander Whitaker to pull him to the ‘Kent’.

           The same week the China Fleet rifle Meeting was held.  The ‘Suffolk’ was successful in securing 1st prize in four events and carrying off a total of 13 cups, 8 silver and 13 bronze jewels.  Remarkably Petty Officer Ransome who won 6 prizes did good shooting.

            The most outstanding feat was that of the ship’s team in the Hamilton Leigh competition in which, even though one of them had a jamb and was unable to fire a single round, a second place was gained only one-fifth of a second behind the winners, who completed the shoot in 38 seconds.  This splendid achievement was referred to by the Commander-in-Chief as an instance of the undaunted spirit of the Ship’s Company.

             Plenty of hockey was played at Wei hai wei.  The men’s team made rapid strides and were only beaten by 1-0 in a match against the small ships who were the eventual winners of the Inter ship Competition.  A Boys knockout competition was also held and again we went down to the ‘Eagle’ in the final by 1-0.

            In the Fleet Athletic sports held on September 13th, we gained nothing outstanding in the individual events, but by conscientious training for the team events we secured third place.  The Royal Marines won both the heavy and lightweight Tug of War, and our teams secured a first in the Hurdle Relay and were runners up in the Obstacle Race.

             In the sailing regatta the Midshipmen won the Grenfell Cup and our crew was second in the race for the Cornwain’s Cup.

             Just before leaving Wei hai wei the ship took part in an impressive ceremony, a “Display of Arms Drill by the Royal Marines and Beating the Retreat by the Massed Bands of the China fleet”.  This was a fine sight to watch, and everything was carried out with such rhythm that one was led to remark how much music there can be in rifle drill.

            That same evening there took place a ‘Friendly’ boxing match between “Suffolk” and “Cumberland” at the Queen’s Hall (Naval Canteen).  There was some very game fighting, and an 2honourable result” of our wins to each side was achieved.  We were greatly interested by Commander Whitaker’s demonstration (in the role of referee) of common faults and fouls, and why certain rules are made in boxing.  Petty Officer Mitchell and “Cumberland’s” Able Seaman Willoughby, whose well-timed blows and realistic imitation of both uninjured and aggressive parties provided plenty of amusement along with excellent instruction, illustrated these points in the ring.

            At the end of the evening Stoker Pryall and A. B. Kelly (a visitor from “Medway”) gave four exhibition rounds (Lightweight).

 

Shanghai

            We said goodbye to Wei hai wei on September 22nd arrived at Woosung at midnight the next day, and the following morning proceeded up the Whangpoo to Shanghai.  A dance was given onboard and, as we had made many acquaintances on the first visit to the port, there was a goodly round of entertainment onshore.

            Shanghai has to be taken in small doses; we had as much as was good for our constitution when the time came to leave on the following Tuesday.

 

Hong Kong And Pratas Reef

            The second half of our journey south was not so pleasant at the first stage.  The sea was rough and typhoon had been reported to the S.E.  However we rolled into Hong Kong the following Thursday and made fast to a buoy, intending to go alongside for the refit at the first opportunity.

            But “The best laid schemes o’mice an men gang aft agley”.  The following day the typhoon warning was still hoisted and on Saturday the news came through that the S.S. City of Cambridge had grounded on Pratas Reef.

            As the weather was too bad for a smaller ship to risk, the “Suffolk” was sent to the rescue.  With the wind blowing at gale force she ploughed her way south receiving a severe buffeting which broke up the stiff holed the pinnace, bent several stanchions and smashed a ladder.  Speed had to be reduced from the 25 knot steamed during the first few hours and, when it was apparent that the reef could not be made before nightfall, it was decided to turn head on to sea.

            The next morning, increasing speed again to 25 knots, the reef was soon reached and the “City of Cambridge” came into view perched high on the coral with heavy seas pounding her.  It was apparent that there was no hope of ever getting her off, the only practical measure being to rescue those onboard.  With this object in view we proceeded to the Western Horn of the reef, anchored about 11 miles from the wreck, and a motor boat towing a cutter and the whaler was sent in with Lt. Cdr. Venville and Lt. Cdr. Surtees to try to get into communication with the survivors and take Cdr. (E) Docksey and Mr. Newberry, the Commissioned Shipwright, onboard to estimate the possibilities of salvage.

            Viewed from the bridge, the turquoise blue water inside the reef looked comparatively calm compared with the sea outside, but it was only an illusion due too the shallow water, and the ten miles from the entrance to the wreck were only traversed with the utmost difficulty on account of the rough sea and hidden rocks, which threatened the bottoms of the boats.  The motorboat actually lodged on one of the rocks, the wind swung her round, and nearly capsizing her and she had to be towed off by the strenuous efforts of those in the pulling boats. 

            Having got abreast of the “City of Cambridge” the shallow water of the last two miles could only be negotiated in the whaler, which had to struggle against wind and tide.  Some idea of the difficulties cane be obtained when it is realised that it took an hour and a half to pull these two miles, then, having got within 30 yards of the wreck, another baffling situation arose.  Surf was breaking round the bows and stern forming an awkward swirl and the boats rudder was knocked off on a submerged patch of coral making a nearer approach impossible.  The swirling surf buffeted the rudderless boat in all directions, but fortunately the bows were hit by a wave, which swung her round, and the crew, using their oars, were able to get clear without capsizing.

            Those watching from the wreck remarked that the handling of the boat in these difficult circumstances was a magnificent piece of seamanship.  Is spite of the disappointment at not reaching the ship, the purpose was served of enabling Cdr. Docksey to observe at close quarters that salvage was impossible.  Some anxiety was left onboard the “Suffolk” for there were two conflicting reports about the safety of the whaler.  Very little could be seen during heavy rain squalls, and the motor boat started to return to the ship, as it was thought that the others would stay the night onboard the wreck owing to the darkness and weather conditions, but the Master of the “City of Cambridge” signalled that the whaler had been beaten back by the breakers.  The motorboat then returned to the whaler’s assistance and she was found about 6 miles from the ship running before the wind on a mizzen only.

            The traversing of these 6 miles was an anxious time for those in the whaler.  From the very start everything in the boat, including the matches, was soon wet through and even the comfort of a smoke could not be obtained as they groped their way in the dark hoping that the motorboat could spot them.

            That night a very wet, bedraggled, and somewhat exhausted party arrived back onboard, but when the time came to repeat the operation in the morning, there was no room in the boats for all the volunteers who wished to accompany the officer in charge on a second attempt.

            When Monday morning dawned, the weather was worse than ever and Captain Errol Manners faced with grave responsibility, worn with a night on the bridge with the ship at short notice for steam, came to a cool decision to make the attempt to rescue the officers and crew of the “city of Cambridge” in face of the known and many unknown dangers.

            The boats went away about 0630, heavy seas played havoc with them, necessitating strenuous baling, and before long a tow parted and tore out a towing bollard.  The experience of the day before enabled those in the whaler to assist the boats leaving the wreck with the first party of survivors to get through the two miles of shallow water.  They had already run out a line attached to heavy fire bars to help them to negotiate the surf.  On many occasions the rescued had to jump out and release their boats from the submerged rocks, which were sprinkled about like currants in a plum pudding.

            The whaler, being of a lighter build than the ship’s boats and last to leave at low tide, was holed by a sharp piece of rock and quickly filled.  While some of the crew baled frantically with buckets, the hole was repaired by jamming in a sail with the corner of a bully beef box and the crew took turns to sit on it for the next three hours.

             This caused some amusement when the boat was hoisted.  The officer superintending, noticing that the boat was full of water, gave the order to pull out the plug.  The whaler emptied in one and he thought that the bottom had fallen out, but it was only the result of removing the improvised tingle.

            To assist in the final towing back Lt. Coleridge was sent with the other motorboat and he and Lt. Cdr. Surtees made a splendid job of this very difficult task.  On one occasion he is stated to have got out and lifted the motorboat off a rock.  By the end of the day the number brought off from the wreck was sixty five and their safety was in no little measure due to the care and foresight of Commander Whitaker who forgot nothing in preparing for and executing the safe hoisting of the boats, an exacting task with such tempestuous seas.  He not only ensured the survivors being brought onboard safely, but also did everything to make them comfortable and make them feel that their brothers in the Navy extended a sympathetic and friendly hand to them.

            The Ship’s Company wholeheartedly came forward and produced money from Canteen funds to provide cigarettes and comforts for the crew and ransacked their kit bags for dry clothing, managing to stage some curious sights of Lascar Marines and Sepoy Sailors.

            Day broke on Tuesday morning with brilliant sunshine and an abated wind so the gallant party set out once more to bring off the remainder.  It was an easier job this time on account of the calm sea, although the rocks were an even greater menace because the glint of the sun rendered them difficult to see.  The whaler made three trips to the wreck, the Master, Captain Teauge, leaving in the last boat.

            At 1600 we sailed for Hong Kong going a little out of our way to have a last look at the sad sight of a fine ship standing erect on the reef, still defying the devastating seas, which were pounding her sides.

            After the uncomfortable buffeting experienced during the weekend we were glad to make fast to the dockyard wall on returning to Hong Kong.  The ship remained alongside refitting until November 23rd when she went into dry dock for four days at Taikoo.

            November 11th brought the 16th anniversary of Armisitce Day and a detachment was sent from the “Suffolk” to take part in the impressive ceremony at the Cenotaph.

            Between trips to sea for gunnery practice during November and December, the ship’s football team put up a very fine performance in several matches and came out top of the League Division 1 and carried off the shield.  In the boxing world Stoker Pryall beat Stoker Dee of H.M.S. Phoenix in a well fought 15 round contests for the lightweight Championship of Hong Kong.  He put up a clean fight and well deserved the belt, which was presented to him by the Commander-in-Chief at the close of the contest.

            Another fine success in local sport was gained on December 7th when Captain S. G. Cutler R.M. won the 26-hole championship at the United Services Golf Meeting at Fanling and Lieutenant Commander James gained second place.  There was further indication that the Commander-in-Chief watched the prowess of his late flagship in work and play.  On November 8th he sent a congratulatory signal to “Suffolk” having see Captain Manner’s score of 93 not out when representing the Navy in a cricket match against Kowloon C.C.

            The result of the inter part cricket was that the Daymen beat the Q. D. by two wickets and carried off the cup.  Representatives of the winning side were:-Sub. Lt. Uspratt, Pay. Mid Smith, L.S.A. Emerson, S. A. Pepper, M.A.A. Barclay, Cook Waters, Tel. Shayler, Ldg. Sig. Wood, Ord. Sig. Wilson, Ldg. Sig. Dawes, Tel. Jones. Scorer-C.P.O. Cook Budgeon.

            On Christmas day we displayed a large bunch of evergreen at the masthead, which a working party set out with a Christmassy spirit to cull from Stonecutters a few days before.  It was with a festive feeling that the Captain, accompanied by the Officers and their wives, made a tour of the messes, which were gaily decorated and heaped with good fare.  A special feature this year was the provision of an envelope with each menu card for sending it to those dear to us at home to assure them that, although we had an aching void in our hearts, other corners of our inner man were well supplied.

            The decorations were very well carried out and the mistletoe was not wasted this year as the ladies were present.  Everybody enjoyed the fun and behind it all was the comforting thought ‘Home next year’.

            The New Year was ushered in with hot punch and “music” on the quarterdeck by the few who stayed onboard, and it found us with 27532 miles of steaming to our credit since leaving England.

            On January 4th we proceeded to Sharp Peak Bay for an 8-inch practice bombardment, which was carried out successfully.  The next important event was the Ceremonial Parade at Happy Valley, a very fine spectacle in which over eleven hundred men took part with Captain Errol Manners in Command.  It was a brilliant day; the performance of the troops was brilliant too.  The Commander-in-Chief appeared to be very pleased with everything, and special mention was made of the smartness of the “Suffolk” sailors and the marching of our Royal Marine Detachment.

            Of more general interest to Hong Kong was the dance held onboard the now famous ‘Suffolk’ on January 17th.  Preparations for this were arduously pursued during the early weeks of the year.  The help of experts from the shore had had rallied round to produce what the Admiral termed in his congratulatory signal: -    

“A most enjoyable dance
..  The decorations were especially beautiful and all the arrangements and organisation were quite perfect.”

 

             It was a cold night and guests were delighted to find the quarterdeck well screened from the weather whilst braziers glowed cheerfully in the waist where supper tables groaned beneath the fare most tastefully arranged by Messrs. Lane Crawford and the Hong Kong Hotel.

            We said it with flowers-2000 dahlias, 400 gladioli, 400 chrysanthemums, and 200 bunch of violets, which pleased the most expert of connoisseurs among the ladies.  The lighting effect blended with the beauty of the flowers and changed according t the mood from a heavenly blue to a rosy sunset hue.

            Others were pleased by the unexpected appearance of trolleys with “attendant spirits”, and many were prayerful of a model of the ship made by Ord. Sea Webb out of such oddments as scraps of metal, paper and match sticks; the only tools used in the construction being a razor blade and a jack knife. 

            The Maintainers under Bandmaster Ridout, always popular wherever they go, surpassed themselves this night under the guns of “Y” a place now honoured by precedent.

            Unexpected pleasure was given by a diversion during the interval; two Durchman appeared and executed a neat step dance with music from the planistic hands of a gorgeous purple pierrot (A.B. Bryant, Ord. Tel. Shayler, and C. P.O. Pettifor).

            Still more surprising was the appearance of none other than the Suffolk Punch, described later by a gossip writer as the best horse she had ever seen, who gambolled musically to strains produced by Ye Olde English Yokel in turn from a violin and an upturned bucket.  (Front legs-P. O. O’Brien, Back Legs-Ldg. Sea. Helyer, Owner-Driver –Surgeon Lieut. Vincent Smith).

            The complete success of the dance was largely due to the enthusiastic organising of Surgeon Commander Phillips, but “the butcher, the baker, and the candlestick maker”, in other words-the plumber, the chippychap, and the sail maker, all played their part, and the electric light party outshone the candlestick maker.

           The Admiral having enjoyed the dance came back onboard again the following Sunday to present the Football Shield.  The players in the winning team were E. R. A. McGuire (Captain), A. B. Cosens Marine Dodds, Ord. Sea. Lewis, Sto. Love, S. A. Pepper, A. B. Pyatt, A. B. Rycroft, E. R. A. Sargent, Pay. Mid. Smith and P. O. Tomkins.  Cpl. Gale and E. R. A. Scanlon also played in the earlier matches of the competition.  Team Manager-Ldg. Sea. James.  The league consists of the Cruisers, Medway, and Eagle; each ship players the others twice making twelve matches in all.  The Admiral spoke of the fine achievement of the “Suffolk” which only lost one match and had no more than seven goals scored against her during the whole of the competition, a record performance for the China Station. 

            After the presentation of the shield, the Captain congratulated the winners of the Amateur Team Boxing championship, of the China Station who were lined up under the guns of ‘Y’ turret.  The combatants were Able Seamen Burke, and O’Connell; Stokers Cawson, Clarke, Cruickshank, Hayler and White.

A.     B. O’Connell, Sto Hayler, and Ord Sea Tuck all won their weights.  The Captain in congratulating Tuck remarked that judging by the fighting form, he ought to change his name to Tiger.

            At the end of the month we proceeded to sea for torpedo exercises and an 8 in. full calibre night shoot both of which were carried out according to plan.  Returning to harbour we settled down for the last week end in Hong Kong before going north, when news came through that the S.S. Tungchow had been pirated 10 miles N.E. of Shaweisham, and was proceeding south, probably to Bias Bay, the Pirates lair.  Orders came through for the “Suffolk” to proceed to sea in an endeavour to intercept the pirated vessel in which a Russian guard had been killed and a British engineer Mr K. Macdonald injured.  We were keen to get at the pirates, for among the passengers onboard the Tungchow were 70 British children returning to school at Cheefoo.  However, steam had just been raised ready to proceed, when the news was received that the ship was safe.  The approach of three aeroplanes from the ‘Hermes’ had scared the pirates away, wireless communication was established, and H.M.S. Dainty was sent to escort her to Lyemun Pass.

            The Chinese do not always take things with Oriental calm; at the approach of the first aeroplane the pirates, who were continually flourishing loaded pistols were on the verge of panic, and it was amazing that they were persuaded to launch one of the ship’s boats instead of shooting wildly as they might easily have done.

            Mr. Duncan of the China Inland Mission, who was in charge of the children, pointed out that this organisation makes a very special point of prayer, which in the anxious strain of those three days gave great patience and endurance to the ladies and children with the firm and confident faith that God would bring them safely through.

            When Commander Whitaker visited the ship on her arrival at Hong Kong, he found the children proud of the souvenir of the Chief Pirate’s pull over which they had torn up and shared between them, and with true British spirit they were rejoicing that the experience would ensure a week or more less at school.  The safe arrival of the Tungchow meant that we spent the weekend at Hong Kong where we were able to see the preparations for the Chinese New Year.  At this season the streets take on a festive appearance; it is a time of decoration, good fare, and pretty pink cakes for the children; rather like Christmas with us.

            Perhaps we should not have quite the same idea of good fare as they do-ducks squashed as flat as a pancake, cuttlefish, snakes (a great luxury guaranteed to give the eater the wisdom and strength of the serpent).  Pigs roasted whole, beetles, shark’s fin (a very expensive dish only ‘Taipan’ can afford), chicken’s livers, buffalo steaks, old eggs (very very old), lizards, cock’s combs, lark’s tongues (for those whose pocket and principles allow them to indulge in such a delicacy), and possibly a few odd dogs and cats in various guises.

             The food shops are stacked with these tempting morsels, while others have the gaudy but gay decorations, crackers, and joss sticks appropriate to the occasion.  Red is their favourite (or lucky?) colour shown by the strips of red paper stuck on the sampans, tombs, temples and front doors, in fact one cannot go anywhere without “seeing red”.

            They cater not only for the eyes, but for the ears; devils do not stand on earthly chance at this season, they are scared stiff by festoons of fireworks, in many cases reaching from the roof down to the ground and filling the whole street with a deafening noise.

            The Chinese are good business men, they do not altogether waste the large sums of money often spent on these demonstrations, but arrange that the last bang releases a string of Chinese characters which floats down as a banner advertising their wares.

            At Wanchai a fair is held where merchants from Canton display their pottery, jade, gold fish, sprigs of blossom, and miniature fruit trees gay with golden ripe oranges no bigger than walnuts.

            On their New Year’s Day February 4th, we left this colourful scene for Amoy where we arrived the next afternoon.

 

Amoy

            The residents of Kulangsu made us feel that they were pleased to see the ship once again.  They started by giving a dance at which we were able to renew the acquaintance of those we had met last year.

            An American warship was anchored off the mainland and a Japanese cruiser with four destroyers was there at the same time as us.  Commissioner Wang, the Chief of Police, entertained Captain Manners, Commander Whitaker, and important officers from the American and Japanese ships at a lunch party.  The lunch took place in a Buddhist temple, consequently no meat was allowed.  It was a meal to remember; the twelve courses had the taste and appearance of the usual fish, flesh, and fowl, yet every one of them was vegetarian.  Even the pigeon’s eggs did not come out of a nest, but they were indistinguishable from the real thing. 

            On Monday January 11th the ship was dressed and a salute of 21 guns was fired to conform to the Japanese celebration of the “Founding of the Empire”.

            Several sporting events took place during our stay.  The First XI played the Kulangsu club consisting of Europeans of the Island.  It was a very good game, although we won by four goals our opponents put up a very stout fight against a strong team that included no less than seven Navy Players.

            Another match was played on the other side against Amoy University.  Here again our fast attacking forwards carried us to victory with six goals, four of which were scored by Sto Ryan a newcomer to the team, who played centre forward.

            The local community were so impressed with our play that, at their request, teams were sent ashore on two occasions to give exhibition games.  The first, between the Stokers and Seamen, proved to be well-designed contest’ both teams fought hard to win and the result was a draw 1-1.  The second match, between the Stokers Stbd.  Watch and Topmen, was an equally good game.

             The Officers also played a match against the Residents, which again resulted in a draw 1-1.  Among the players at these matches was the royal Marine Band.  A special request had been put in for their performance almost as soon as the ship arrived.

             The Non Stops concert party did their best to make a brighter Amoy by presenting a new show under the name of “Fifty-Fifty”.  The performance was held at the Amoy Club.

             The house was full; on the rise of the curtain the entire company gave their rousing opening chorus in promising style.  Hardly had we recovered from this riot of melody from the stage than our hopes even brighter upon Helyer’s first entrance.

             We were not disappointed; he was at the top of his inimitable form, and his well-known rendering of Bibulous Sam McKew was as popular as ever.  A. B. Hayman then switched us over from comedy to melody and very pleasing it was, the able accompaniment of Signalman Wilson assisting in the success of this number.  More comedy came next in the proving one of the most popular turns of the evening.

            Next came a turn which in this type of show is difficult to put over with success’ a couple of sentimental songs by Lamb and Miss Hageman were carried off very successfully by both of them, to whom was given a well deserved ovation.  Now came a first-class turn by the Rev. Lewis Bryan.  His humorous monologue was the cause of long hold ups in the show, the majority of the audience being quite helpless; hard-bitten seafarers weeping like children and aged women uttering little cooing noises of distress.  But we were not allowed to relax after this; Heyler’s appearance as a women convulsed us even further, and we were thankful to rest in the soothing strains of gypsy melodies by Lamb and his attendant Negroes.  Here came an interval and in the bar many were the praises sung of the Non-Stops, so that an expectant audience awaited the rise of the curtain on the next half.  Once more we were gladdened by the sight of Helyer and O’Brien in the guise of costers in their ‘Barrer in the Walworth road’.  This was a more ambitious effort and deserved the hearty applause it received.  Next came a new singer to the ranks, Shayler, giving an extremely good rendering of “Fair and Warmer”.  It is a pity we have not heard more of his voice, as it is definitely a pleasing one and he knows how to use it.  Once more a musical interlude by Wilson and Surg. Lieut. Smith, the latter producing some melodious sounds on his violin, to the obvious delight of his listeners.  And now we were regaled by incredible feats in strength by Burgess, ably introduced by a very Italian O’Brien, and the “Suffolk Punch’s” feats on his middle made the ladies in the audience shriek with joyful terror. 

           We were not to be without Helyer for long however-he appeared again with Lamb and Mrs. Lamb (nee Miss Hageman) in another version of the eternal triangle to our complete and heartily expressed joy.  Next came the Dutchmen, whose success was assured by their clever patter dance aforementioned in this book, and they were in tip-top form, receiving a well-merited encore.  Once more the Rev. Lewis Bryan rendered us incoherent and helpless.  His stuttering quite brought the house down, all throwing dignity to the winds in their attempts to prevent their sides splitting.  And then they closed down, to everybody’s disappointment.  This show lasted three hours and it felt like one hour.

            Thanks to the interest of Mr. Lerrigo the Hon. Pastor of the Union Church arrangements were made for a party to visit Amoy to see the ancient temples and modern improvements.  Mr. Lerrigo conducted the tour himself, taking the party for nine or ten miles, pointing out all the items of interest on the way and giving them the benefit of his extensive knowledge of locals conditions after many years of residence in China.

             The following account by E. A. Adames, one of the parties, tells of the enjoyable day they had.

            “Someone must have made  “good joss” on our behalf overnight for the day we spent exploring the hinterland of Amoy, was blessed with perfect weather.  Even so, after the torrential downpour on the previous day, most of us rather expected sticky going whereas the reverse proved to be the case.  The motorboat with cutter in tow took the party to the jumping off spot-The Waterworks Jetty-where we were met by our genial guides, Mr. Lerrigo of the Amoy Y.M.C.A. and his secretary, Ah Low.  Our first objective was the Tung Sung Memorial Park to Sun Yet Sen, to gain, which we apparently walked the length of the principal thoroughfare, which is not unlike the Queen’s Road of Hong Kong.  There were the usual types of shops one associates with any Chinese town, although the degree of cleanliness was rather surprising after what we had been led to expect.  However, the reason for this was fully explained by Mr. Lerrigo when we gathered round him on the football pitch in the park.  Having outlined the itinerary to be carried out, he gave us a short but lucid description of the work of Tung Sung who in the short of 5-6 years had transformed Amoy from the reputation of being the filthiest town in China, to what we now saw.  A man with outstanding abilities, he cleared the plague and malaria infested hovels that once comprised the town an replaced them with the wide straight streets, modern buildings and sanitation on an initial grant of $5,000.  Following up the good work he constructed this park out of the dirtiest part of the town, and in our walk around it we could appreciate what an enormous difference he had made.  Besides the formal flower beds there is a sports ground, a basketball pitch, children’s playground complete with swings and slides, also a rockery and maze, a bandstand and tea gardens.  A good vie of the general layout was obtained when we gained the top rockery; to reach which we crossed the ornamental bridges spanning the artificial lakes that form such a pleasant feature of the place.  All buildings are in the traditional Chinese style having a charm all of there own.”   

             “We left by the same gateway that we had entered, pausing to look at a monument depicting the World surmounted by a lion and supported by four eagles.  This was a design much admired by Tung Sung who caused it to be erected and Mr. Lerrigo thought that probably it was his hope that one day the world would be governed by the best English and American laws.  An anomaly due to the colouring apparently gave Australia to china-but then red is a silly colour for land anyway!”

            “Shortly after leaving the Park we turned off to the right and so came upon the first outcrop of rocks that are such a prominent feature of the hills.  Advancing up the valley we paused awhile to gaze at the dhobi men and women subjecting the washing to the harsh treatment of rock and heavy stick in the waters of a small stream the colour of which bore testimony to their activities, as also did the clothes!”

            “This valley is known as that of 10,000 Rocks; although we did not count them it must be a very conservative estimate.  Three temples were visited during the course of the day, the first being named after the valley and in that portion not under reconstruction we saw something of the interior decorations which were rather lavish, embroidery predominating.  Some of this was very fine work and would have made an acceptable curio had any been on sale.  The smell associated while burning joss sticks was much in evidence and, although we filled the temple to its full capacity, it apparently had no disturbing influence on a Chinese women, who continued uninterruptedly in her devotions to an image of Buddha.”

            “Emulating the actions of a herd of goats that passed us, we continued our climb and near the top entered the Temple of Peace.  Here came a welcome rest while we admired the view and listened with interest to a description of the three main religions of China-Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism.  Mr. Lerrigo also described the great difficulties overcome in the moving of thousands of old graves to allow improvements to be made.  All the way up we had been passing graves, while here and there were seen the “golden” jars in which the bones are placed after a suitable time has elapsed.  Some of these were broken exposing the remains of someone’s ancestor, making a unique photographic study.”

            “With renewed interest we recommenced our walk, which was to prove the stiffest part of the day’s excursion.  It commenced at the laughing Rock and finished on what seemed to be the highest point on the island.  From here we could look back on our achievement, with the ship in the back ground and also plainly see that Amoy is entirely surrounded by water, whereas the popular belief had been that it formed part of the mainland.”

            “Ahead of us in further valley was the handiwork of another clever Chinaman who against expert advice and at much trouble and expense had achieved the seemingly impossible and constructed the reservoir that has done so much to improve the health of this place.  It was perforce a speedy descent to the offices of the waterworks where we were kindly permitted to take our lunch.  A very welcome item was the thoughtful provision of beer, which was most acceptable, but whoever heard of that beverage being consumed on such premises before?”

            “Refreshed after a very pleasant rest we sent out on the return journey which besides being shorter was on comparatively level ground.  We soon reached the coast and turning towards the town passed through the University of Amoy (we did not stop to obtain our degree) to reach the Lan Poo Tao temple, largest in the part of china.  The usual beggars greeted us at the entrance, whilst inside we saw the familiar laughing Buddha and the guardian of the law.  Ranged on the side in long glass cases were some of his numerous disciples, whilst in the central courtyard was the principal shrines, a most elaborately glided structure.  Steps led up to the entrance and from the gallery that surrounds it we had a good view of the ceremony in their faith that necessitates the setting off of really fearsome crackers.  The ones associated with our boyhood days were Lilliputian by comparison.”

             “It was a bare quarter of an hour’s walk from the temple to the spot on the beach near the wireless station where our boats were waiting to take us back to the ship.  It had been a most enjoyable trip and although the distance covered could not have exceeded 9 miles we all felt the better for the exercise.  Our faces bore testimony to the action of sun and wind, while the clean state of our footgear brought home the cleverness of the man who, with such absorbent soil to deal with, could impound the large head of water we had seen.”

            Such was the success of this outing that a second one was arranged for the following Thursday.  This time the Natural History Section of the University was visited.   Another way in which the residents showed their hospitality was by giving a social at the Customs Club for the Chiefs & P.O.’s where they entertained them with billiards, dancing and good fare.  Incidentally the visitors won three games of billiards out of three.

           To wave farewell on Friday morning we steamed round the island, passing through the narrow channel, which separates Kulangsu from Amoy.  Thousands of Chinese assembled to see the sight, and the ship certainly looked a picture gleaming with fresh paint and bright work.

            Fine weather prevailed during the passage to Hong Kong where we arrived on February 16th.

 

Hong Kong

            Sporting activities came well to the fore once we were back again in Hong Kong.  Besides the seven a side rugger, a soccer match was soon fixed up against the newly arrived “Berwick”, which resulted in a win for the ship 2-0.

            The following week a match was played against the “Hermes”, which looked like being a tough opposition with four well-known Navy Players in her team, including Sto. Cocker the Navy and Devon County goalkeeper.  However, within 15 minutes Mne. Doods the inside right ran clean through the defence and got the ball past him.  After that the ship’s team never looked back, and with two more goals scored by Sto. Ryan and Ord. Sea Lewis the victory was gained 3-0. 

            When the P & O. liner Chitral arrived she sent a challenge.  As she had previously beaten the “Kent” and “Cornwall” our team were taking no chances but by steady play and clever passing they won by no less than 8-1.

            The most amusing game of the season was that played by our boys against the Bell Boys and cabin Boys of the Empress of Britain, which called at Hong Kong on her word cruise.  The ground was half under water after some heavy rain, and it was more like aquatic sports than football; the spectators yelled with delight when Boy Hutchinson forced his way through pools of water sending up a bow wave to score three out of the four goals by which they won.

            The next day the 1st elevens of the two ships met, the game ending in another win by five goals to nil.

            The ship’s most formidable opponents were the Welsh Fusiliers.  The match against them was a struggle from start to finish, but a perfect centre by A.B. Fairley enabled Mne.  Dodds to kick the only goal scored.

            For those who like a spectacle reminiscent of the combats staged in the Roman arena to please Nero, the rugger match between the Seamen and the Marines was just the thing.  The result of this onslaught was a win for the “Royals” by 25 points to 5.

            A compliment was paid to the “Suffolk’s” team when the Hong Kong Football Association chose E. R. A. McGuire as captain of the side in the match for the Governor’s Cup.  In this match the Chinese Football Association won by 1-0.

            The 1st eleven celebrated their victorious season by a dinner at the China Fleet Club and afterwards went to the Ship’s Company dance.  The dance was another successful social event.  The beauty of Hong Kong was well represented and everybody, not the least Captain Manners, spent a very enjoyable evening dancing to the alluring music of the “Maintainers” who, owing to their ever increasing popularity, were asked to broadcast from the Hong Kong Studio the next evening.

            In case it should appear that life in the Services is all football and dancing, mention had batter be made of more serious matters.  A big exercise started on March 21st when we combined with the army to carry out an attack on Hong Kong.

            The “Suffolk” belonged to Blueland, the nation, which cast envious eyes on, the island held by Redland.

            In the preparation for the attack, we embarked 600 soldiers and 22 officers of the East Lancashire Regiment. The complement of the “Suffolk” is round about 700 men, so it was like doubling the normal crew, and the ship’s cat had difficulty in finding a comfortable space that night.

            All the week the weather had been hot and sultry, but towards evening it blew hard and there was a sudden drop of temperature making the operation extremely difficult and uncomfortable.

            The soldiers, marines and seamen who formed the landing party, complete with howitzers, machine guns, and a paper bag containing their one and only meal, were transferred to destroyers just before nightfall.  The transfer was performed at Mirs Bay, and then the cruisers and destroyers crept round to the south side of the island under the cover of darkness.

            “Crept round” hardly describes the progress of the destroyers in such bad weather, the cold driving rain and the destroyers in such bad weather; the cold driving rain and the uncomfortable motion tried the bravest hearts (and stomachs). 

            Tytam Bay was the scene of our particular operations and at about half past one in the morning the attackers were landed in open boats.  Pounded by the heavy surf they managed to make a landing and, what is more, drove back the Redland forces, got their guns over the rocks and sand, then up the hill and established them in position. 

             Amongst the amusing incidents was the capture of the Police Station.  The Bluelanders found some Redlanders inside enjoying bacon and eggs.  The Redlanders were put under arrest and the bacon and eggs commandeered as the spoils of victory.  A sentry was put on the door whom another squad of Redlanders arriving mistook for one of themselves and enquired “are the others inside?” the sentry answered “yes” and as soon as they entered barred the exit and took them captive.

            The outstanding thing about the attack was the cheery fortitude with which the depressing forces of seasickness, wet, and cold were met.  By dawn the Bluelanders had established themselves strongly on the Stanley Peninsula and it was only by bringing up large numbers of Punjabi’s that the Redlanders were able to save their island.

            On March 20th, together with the “Berwick”, we met the U.S.S. Augusta in a rifle match.  The laurels were shared between the “Augusta” and ourselves; the “Augusta” winning the straight shoot and our team securing the rapid competition.  The results were as follows: -

 

Straight shoot at 300, 500, and 600 yards.  Teams of 8.

 U.S.S. Augusta (Marines Team)                         726

H.M.S. Suffolk                                                    698

H.N.S. Berwick (R.M. Team)                              575

 

Rapid competition.  Teams of 4.  300 yards Firing for 1 minute.

H.M.S. Suffolk                                                    181

U.S.S. Augusta                                                    175

H.M.S. Berwick                                                  103

 

            We were glad to see the “Augusta” back in Hong Kong and that same evening we gave a cocktail party onboard to her officers and had many a friendly meeting with them ashore.

            A reminder that the commission was drawing to a close occurred on March 29th when the Commander-in-chief came aboard both to present a silver tray and to say goodbye.  The following inscription engraved on the silver tray explains the purpose of the presentation.

 

Presented to

The Captain, Officers and Ship’s Company of

H.M.S. Suffolk

By

Ellerman’s City Line of Glasgow

As a token of their great appreciation

Of the very gallant services rendered to

The Officers and Crew of

S. S. “City of Cambridge”

Stranded Pratas Island, October 1934

 

            In his farewell speech the Admiral referred to the incident of Pratas Reef and other occasions when the ship had acquitted herself well, and remarked that, at the time of our arrival on the China Station, he had charged us as ambassadors of the British Empire and that he was well satisfied with the way in which we had acquitted ourselves having lived true to our motto “Nous Maintiendrons”.

            The Captain, in replying to Sir Fredrick, thanked him for his encouraging remarks and especially mentioned how grateful we were to Lady Dreyer for the interest she took in our activities and the gracious manner in which she had assisted in the presentation of prizes at various times during the commission.

            After three rousing cheers had been given the Admiral left for his flagship and we proceeded to Shanghai.

 

Japanese Cruise

 

Depart                          Date                              Arrive                           Date                       Distance

H’Kong                          March 29th                     Shanghai                        April 1st                    832 miles

Shanghai                         April 15th                        Nagasaki                       April 17th                  464 miles

Nagasaki                        April 20th                        Beppu                           April 21st                   227 miles

Beppu                            April 23rd                        Kobe                            April 24th                   218 miles

Kobe                              May 6th                          H’Kong                        May 11th                   1367 miles

Total Distance           3108 miles

 

              The voyage to Shanghai was not too comfortable as rough weather was experienced and we were not sorry to arrive at Woosung where the pilot was taken onboard.

            The trip up the Whanpoo is always interesting.  The first thing to catch the eye is the large tide gauge showing whether it is safe to cross the bar.  In April the banks ion either side are, except for a ramshackle Chinese Village here and there, bright with the green freshness of spring splashed with golden yellow patches of the plant from which rapeseed oil is produced, until you come to the large power station that supplies Shanghai with electricity.  After that there are lines of shipping offices and godowns until, passing Soochow Creek, a fine view is obtained of the “Million dollar Skyline”, the nickname for the Bund.

             The river itself is even more interesting than its banks.  Here are to be seen many strange craft from the timber rafts that float down the Yangtze to fine steam ships from every corner of the earth.

            Perhaps the finest sight of all is a junk with her sails swelling to the breeze, coming up the river like a graceful bird-a thing alive.

            The urchins of the Whangpoo are the fussy little tugs with humorous names, Chinese in appearances only, like the “Kan Go”.  These earn their pay towing endless strings of junks, lighters and rafts against the swift current.

            Shanghai is noted for its nightlife but there is no novelty about this; it is only a hybrid importation from Paris or Vienna; if a typical Chinese atmosphere is required the old walled city has to be visited.  It is not safe to wander round its dingy evil smelling streets by oneself hence a small party was arranged to visit the most interesting parts.  Fortunately it had been raining at the time so, the streets still being wet, the dust was kept down and the smells to some extent inhibited.

            The first place of visit was a Buddhist Temple dedicated in one port to the God of War, and in another part to the Goddess of Mercy.  The God of War (Kwan Ti) is a patron deity of literature.  He is not a tyrant delighting in battles and enemies but a god who can avert War and protect his people from its horrors.  Together with two other men of great strength a coveant was made n a peach orchard about 200 A.D. in which the three pledged their debt of loyal citizenship to the State.  After many years of successful military service always remaining faithful to their oath, Kwan Ti was captured and put to death in the year 219 A.D.  Because of his wonderful service the Emperor proclaimed him the God of War in 1594 A.D. 

            Thousands of State Temples have been built in his honour throughout china.  Formerly the presiding magistrate worshipped in this Temple and the Sword of the public executioner was kept there, owing to a belief that the ghosts of criminals were afraid of the God of War’s presence, and thus would not harm these officials.  Since the establishment of the Republic Kwan Ti’s fame has greatly descreased.

            The Godess of Mercy is a great favourite with the Chinese as her name, Kwan Yin, signifies that she is one who pays attention to those who pray.  She is believed to have been a beautiful princess whom her farther ordered to be put to death because she would not marry the Prince of a neighbouring Kingdom.

            When she got to Hades she so transformed the place that the Ruler asked the Supreme Power to transfer her to some other sphere.  This was done, and she spent many years on the island of PU TU, giving her whole time to the service of unfortunate people.

            Learning that her father was dying of a sickness, which could only be cured by an ointment made of the eye and arm of a maiden, she sacrificed her own members for this purpose.  Unfortunately only half of him was healed, so she willingly gave her other arm and eye to cure the other half.  Her father learning who had made this great sacrifice, repented and spent the rest of his life in the service of needy people.  He also commanded that his daughter be made a Goddess and that her image has her arms and eyes restored.  An error in these orders may have resulted in many of her images having any thing from 4 to 500 pairs of arms with which to dispense mercy.

            While we were in this temple about 20 priests with much kow-towing, ringing of gongs, and chanting repetition of prayers, carried out a service.  During the ceremony they kept bending down and touching the hassock with their open hand as an indication that they have renounced the world.  A woman came in with her little son about 4 or 5 years old and made him do the same thing in front of the idol.

            To make sure that the god has a plentiful supply of money the temple is festooned with strings of imitation taels made of paper covered with pewter foil (the tael is a shoe shaped weight of silver which formed the old Chinese currency).  Thee paper taels are burnt in a special incinerator, and the god draws his pay from the ascending smoke.

            Attached to the temple was a monastery.  In the centre was a large courtyard around which were little rooms, each occupied by various members of a family attending a funeral party. They did not appear to be very concerned but carried on playing mah jongg just as if nothing had happened and left the priests to do the obsequies for the dead.  The Chinese mourning is white, so each little room was decorated in white and the nearer relatives wore white outer garments.

            From there we passed through narrow streets decorated with banners and shop signs until we arrived at the City Temple in which the god who is the spiritual Mayor of Shanghai presides.  The City God has to do with the business of rascality, cheating etc., is supposed to exercise a control over the evil spirits of the City, and officially judge wrong doers brought before him.  The Temple contains a large heavy image of the City God and a smaller man sized image which is used, seated in a sedan chair, in procession sometimes miles long which are believed to assist the God in his control of the evil creatures of the underworld.  On each side of the smaller image are stands holding the 18 weapons symbolic of his authority.  He was in the height of his power about the same time as Kwan Ti, the God of War, and was as popular about 200 A.D.  A curious pair of small images are to be found on either side of the City God one of them is “instead of a boy” and the other “instead of a girl”.  Parents with a sick boy or girl pray to these asking them to act as substitutes to the City God.  If the child recovers the parents walk in the next City god’s procession dressed in scarlet.  Near him also is a war of the small rooms are to be found the god’s wife, his parents and other relatives.

             It is to the City Temple that the inhabitants go if they wish to inquire whether it is a lucky day to embark on some enterprise.  A little cumshaw procures the privilege of shaking a large bamboo tube full of sticks.  Each stick is numbered and when the tube is shaken whilst being held horizontally the one that falls out is supposed to have been picked put by the god, and the number determines whether the answer to the question is favourable or not.

            In the front entrance of all Buddhist temples are seen the four Mo brothers, called the four Heavenly Kings, who are the great heavenly protectors.  The oldest one, who is white faced, keeps away all evil spirits by his magic sword; the second with a blue face, supernaturally affects evil spirits by the twanging of his 4 stringed guitar; the third, red faced, carries a small umbrella, the opening of which drives away the evil spirits by covering the heaven and earth with a thick darkness; the fourth one is black faced, and has a snake or other animal in his hand with which he also controls evil spirits.

            The Chinese do not seem to be very definite about their religion; Buddhism and Taoism are intermingled.  Above this same temple are scenes representing the Buddhist-Taoist purgatory with models reminiscent of the Chamber of Horrors at Madame Tussaud’s.  Each scene represents a particular punishment in Purgatory decided upon when the spirit of a person who has recently died is judged by 10 Courts of justice.  Two especially appointed policemen bring the spirit to these courts, and different punishment is meted out according to the sins committed.  Some of them are boiled in hot oil for stealing dead bodies; the tongue is pulled out for being stingy, and the body is thrown to pigs for stirring up trouble between relatives.  

            From this fearsome scene we went to a quiet spot, a relic of old China, the Mandarin Garden built long ago when some ambitious person wanted to make Changhai eclipse Peking.  It was a typical Chinese Rock Garden.  Our guide explained that the Chinese love to gaze at the jutting rocks and imagine that they are different forms, birds, dragons, beauteous maidens, and then perhaps inspiration comes to write a poem.   

            It was a peaceful spot away from the hubbub of the noisy street, but there was one glaring incongruity, a film advertisement “Ladies Love Brutes”.  We were struck with the thought-what a pity the West so often gives its worst to the East.

            Not far from the Mandarin Garden is the Willow Pattern Tea House, which is supposed to be the original of the picture found on the willow pattern China were manufactured in Canton.

            Another pattern with which the natives are fond of decorating their walls and roofs is the Dragon.  To the Chinese he is a benevolent creature not to be feared but one who helps in many ways those who believe in him and worship him.  He is said to have the head of a camel, the horns of a deer, the ears of a cow, the neck of a snake, the body of a fish, the scales of a carp, the claws of an eagle, and the eyes of a devil and the paws of a tiger.  It is estimated that 7 out of 10 Chinese believe that there are real dragons, which may be as small as a silk worm or several miles in length, living in China today.

           Passing over the bridge spanning the lake in the middle of which stands the Willow Pattern Tea Room, we came to the Bird Market where every kind of bird from a nightingale to a myna bird can be purchased.  From thence we wended our way through Jade Street, Brass Street and the Street of the Idol Makers where deft hands carve, according to the demand, either a fearsome idol or a pretty head of a modern Miss china to adorn the windows of the hat shops for the display of the latest Paris models.

            We would have lingered in these old streets but we had already spent many hours gazing at their curious sights when the time came to take a ricksha back to the Bund where China’s millions were still busy unloading coal, wood, and other commodities from the boats on the river.

            The shooting enthusiasts also had an interesting time at Shanghai where they had the opportunity of pitting their strength against the Royal Iniskilling Fusiliers and the Shanghai Municipal Police.  In the rifle matches against the Iniskilling one match was lost by 11 points and the other won by 28 points.  These were no mean achievements as the soldiers had just completed their practice week at the range.

            Some very interesting revolver shooting was experienced on the Shanghai Municipal Police Range, which is world famous for its novel scheme of moving and surprise targets-welcome variations from the usual service shooting.  Some of the police experts showed how quick they are, and have needed to be, “on the draw” and many of our men saw hip shooting for the first time.  In a match with the Special Reserve of Police, using their cunningly devised surprise targets, 12 hits-not unexpected vanquished our team considering the difference in weapons.

            A party of officers and men also went to see a demonstration turn out of the Police Riot Squad displaying some of their methods of dealing with the peculiar situations which are likely to develop, and often do, in a place of such varied tempers and racial mixtures as Shanghai.

            The Police Armoury was of great interest both from the point of view of the weapons and the protective devices.  Special steel waistcoats were donned by one of our seamen and a marine; their relief was apparent when the Commissioner of Police who was showing us the “sights”, fired his revolver at a policeman similarly attired rather than at them.

           Perhaps the Chinese look upon this immunity from sudden death as Long Fat, which is their name for Gully Gully.  They themselves are past masters of the art as we learnt when a troupe came onboard during the dog watches to give an entertainment.  There were five performers, the two men and the two youngest children, a boy of 7 and a girl of 5, were clever acrobats.  It was a pleasure to see the thoroughness with which they performed each trick; such slickness and precision demanded a very high standard indeed.  Neither was they lacking in a sense of stage presentation as was shown on more than one occasion when they completed a trick on a humorous note.

            The little boy in particular seemed well on the way to proficiency, for not only was he supple enough to be able to reach a cup placed on the deck with the greatest of ease by doubling himself backwards whilst standing on a trestly, but at other times he could brace himself so stiffly as to be held out by his feet like a poker.

             The conjuring was in the hands of the elder members entirely and, although their apparatus was of the simplest character, they kept us amused and completely baffled notwithstanding the fact that their audience was so close to them.  It meant therefore that they did it all by sleight on hand, and so well did they perform that not once was it possible to see how it was done.   

             The fire eating was possibly the most spectacular, although that had a close competitor in the bowl of water trick, which on one occasion included a live frog as well.  A cloth was laid on the deck and after a lot of painful digging round it with a trowel, it was removed to display what had been dug out of the deck was a bowl so full of water that it overflowed.

            Every possible combination of the ‘Five Cherries’ trick was presented, the cherries disappearing and reappearing at the command of the conjurer, at times from the most surprising places (ask one of the band!)  Given the opportunity one felt that the troupe would not have disgraced an English stage.

            The next day we were privileged to hear a lecture, which Mr. Findlay Andrew gave onboard.  He is a great authority on China, one of the few men who have a practical knowledge of the various dialects.  The title of the lecture was ‘China’, but the lecturer confined his remarks to the Yellow River and to life amongst the Buddhists of the Kansu Province.  He spoke about the terrible problem of flood and famine caused by the vagaries of the Yellow River, which alters it, course entirely at intervals of about eighty years owing to the silting up of the bed and the final collapse of the banks.  With the years the millions of tons of yellow mud brought down by the current build the river up to a higher level than the surrounding country and the present efforts of the Chinese are not sufficient to avert final disaster.  He told us that the dreaded event was fast approaching, and in spite of the many other grave problems with which China is faced at the present day, the Yellow River was by far the gravest.  He spoke with a first hand knowledge of the horrors of flood and famine in a country of such long distances and slow transport, for he himself has been used by the Government in the past to organise what relief human aid can bring in such cases.  

            Coloured lanternslides helped us to picture the country and people he spoke about; many of them were of the Lamas, those exclusives of Buddhism so difficult of approach for the foreigner.  One slide was of the Panchen Lama, the spiritual Head of Buddhism, who was a personal friend of the lecturer during the many years he spent in Kansu.  The Dalai Lama who resides at Lhassa is the Temporal Head of Buddhism, and we were interested to hear that there are two Buddhists sects; the Red Lamas, who are of a primitive type, and the Yellow Lamas who follow a reformed type of Buddhism.

            In telling us of these interesting people, he made the unravelled heart of Chinato us and we came away feeling that we ourselves have not even scratched the surface of Cathay during our two years here.

            There we were in Shanghai certainly is not China although that is its postal address.  But there is one thing about Shanghai, there is never a dull moment there; we were again entertained by our friends at the Zero Club and lunched with the Royal Air Force Association in the Dome of the Hong Kong & shanghai Bank Building, where we rose to their unique toast-‘Those who have flown’.

            A dance was given at the Union Jack club to return the hospitality extended to us by the British Women’s Association on our last visit to the port.  The two hundred or more who attended spent a very jolly evening and there was no lack of partners.  To say farewell to Shanghai and ‘At Home’ was given onboard’ it was a very wet day, but we flatter ourselves that it was not rain alone that caused our guests to linger.

           A t the time of leaving shanghais on April 15th; there was the unusual sight of two British 10,000 ton cruisers off the Bund at the same time.  H.M.S. Berwick was waiting upstream t make fast to the buoy from which we slipped.  We were not quite sure if this would be the last glimpse we should have of the Whangpoo for it had not yet been decided whether the ship would return to take onboard the treasures which the Chinese Government are sending to England for the Exhibition of Chinese Art at Burlington House.

            On the way down the river we passed our friends in U.S.S. Augusta, who, realising that this would be the last time they would see us, manned ship and gave three cheers which we heartily reciprocated, after which the bands played ‘Auld Lang Syne’.

 

Nagasaki

            At 0900 April 17th, we arrived at Nagasaki, a pace famous in romance as the home of Madame Butterfly.  The little tree studded green islands guarding the entrance to the harbour was a pleasing contrast to the low laying banks of the Yangtze, the last piece of land near enough for a clear view since leaving Shanghai.

            Nagasaki is of historic interest because it was the first place in Japan opened to European trade.  The fine harbour attracted many vessels when in 1570 foreigners were allowed to land, and it is the port through which the scientific ideas of the West (especially medicine and shipbuilding) first filtered into Japan.

            However in 1637 there was an attempt to drive out the Christian population and wholesale massacres occurred, but the Dutch managed to secure the privilege of carrying on trade, only they were confined to a small district known as Dejima, a fan shaped island connected to the city of bridges.

            At the present time the European population is not large.  There is only a handful of British residents whom we were very pleased to see onboard and at their club ashore.

            Some were fortunate enough to be able to spend a day at the famous hot springs at Unzen.  The weather was perfect, the countryside was bathed in sunshine and there was the freshness of spring in the air.  The town of Nagasaki is not very beautiful, except for picturesque peeps here and there, but we soon got a glimpse of the most delightful country.  The road wound between pretty little covered hills fresh with a new mantle of green.  There is something very dainty about the Japanese landscape; the trees have a feathery appearance and the maples add a warm glow to the green.

            Eventually we came to a fork where there was a choice of two roads, so we chose to go one way and return by the route overlooking the sea.  We passed through several villages where little children in gaily-flowered kimonos waved a smiling greeting.  Any of the houses were a trifle dingy but the inhabitants had the contended look which is more often found in country folk, whose chief competitor is Mother nature, than those who strive with one another in towns.  The kindly expression which most of them had was particularly striking.

           There was evidence of their industry in the well cultivated fields, arranged in terraces on the hillsides, each with its own little crop; the green of the rice, the yellow cabbage flower, another clover coloured plant and, of course, the little mulberry trees to provide the leaves on which the silk worm feeds.  Best of all was the blossom.  The proper time to see the cherry blossom is early in April, but in one or two sheltered spots there were a few trees at the height of their beauty; sufficient for the imagination to dwell on the whole countryside bedecked with a delicate pink and white.

            The Japanese have a saying ‘don’t say Kekko (beautiful) until you have seen Nikko’.  Nikko is a place north of Tokyo many miles from this scene but the saying might be applied equally well to the district around Unzen.

            After a while the road begins to wind steeply upwards with many awkward hairpin bends.  Nearing our destination we began to smell the sulphurous fumes that arise from the volcanic springs, which abound at the top of the mountain 2200 feet high on which Unzen is situated.  We went to have a look at the fissures from which the water gushed a boiling hot or steam issued with a roar.  The remarkable thing is that close by these hot springs flow streams of cool clear water uncontaminated by sulphur.  The hotels in the district make use of the fresh water for drinking and the hot water is led down to baths alleged to have fine healing qualities.  There is an abundance of hot water in Unzen for every purpose; it is the cold water suitable for drinking that is scarce. 

            It is a pleasant walk to the golf course where one can rest in the clubhouse and sip a cup of Japanese green tea while admiring the scenery.  The hill on which it is perched is not the highest in the district; if you are feeling energetic you can climb up another thousand feet or so to the top of Mt. Kinugasayama or Mt. Yakade, the two peaks on either side of the plateau on which Unzen nestles.

             After a walk admist these refreshing surroundings where wild violets peeped up from the earth our host suggested lunch at a Japanese hotel.  He took us to a two-storied wooden building where, according to the custom of the country, we took off our shoes and donned sandals before entering.  The reason for this cleanly practice is that the natives sit on mats on the floor, not on chairs as we do, so it is very desirable to keep the floor clean.  When they go into the living room they even divest themselves of the sandals and walk in their stokinged feet.  We entered a very neat room with padded yellow straw mats on the floor, the only furniture being a little low mirror rather like a child’s dressing table, a simple wall cabinet and a typical Japanese picture.

            But the setting was not in the room; going on to the balcony one saw the most charming rock garden with a miniature waterfall splashing into a little lake in which large carp and goldfish flashed in the sunlight.  Perhaps the most exquisite thing about this garden was a tiny maple tree with russey gold foliage.  Feasting our eyes on this peaceful scene we partook of green tea and ‘small chow’ consisting of a sort of sweetmeat made of ground beans.  Then we retired into the room where a Japanese maiden had arranged four little tables, one for each of us, in the form of a square.  She seated herself in the middle with a large red earthenware pot full of glowing charcoal over which she heated our rice and tea.  We squatted on the floor and she brought us arm rests; sitting there one felt rather like a sultan out of the Arabian nights.

            On each little table were five bowls; one contained chicken broth, a second raw fish and horseradish, the third dried fish with some kind of sauce, the fourth chicken liver with the yolk of an egg made to look like a loquot, and into the fifth she placed hot rice.  We fell to this chopstick with more or less success.  We cannot say that we enjoyed the meal, but raw fish is eatable even if it is not enjoyable; fortunately rice is filling.  After that we retired to the balcony, with our knee joints rather stiff after the unaccustomed posture on the floor, and partook of fruit and coffee.

            On the journey back we took the road overlooking Chigiwa bay and, as we descended, caught a glimpse of the sea looking blue and tranquil.  Near the villages a good many kites were seen in the sky.  April is the month for kite flying.  Contests are held; the upper ends of the strings are coated with ground glass with which each tries to cut down another’s kite, the last to be left with his kite flying being acclaimed the victor.

            The appearance of some of the trees was rather puzzling they appeared to have paper blooms; on a closer inspection they turned out to be loquots over which the industrious peasants had put paper bag every fruit.  There is an abundance of azaleas in these parts, which were in full bloom.  We returned to Nagasaki feeling that we had had our fill of beauty.     

            Some who were unable to get so far a field as Unzen took a trip to Mogi, a small place by the seashore noted for its scenery and rocky beaches where fish could be caught in abundance.

            In Nagasaki itself is Suwa Park, which abounds in old camphor trees.  Situated on a slight elevation it commands a fine view of the town and harbour.  There is also the Suwa Shrine, or Bronze Horse Temple as it is called on account of the large bronze horse in the court.

            Besides the large Naval dockyard one of the chief industries of Nagasaki seems to be moulding tortoise shell.  The principal shopping street, Hama-machi, is full of tortoise shell ware, culture pearls, coral, porcelain and the dozens of novelties that the Japanese manufacture.  Our stock of souvenirs had increased considerably by the time we left on Saturday.

 

Beppu

           The route led through the Shimonoseki Straights to the Inland Sea, that land enclosed expanse of water extending from East to West for 240 miles.  Beppu, situated on the East Coast of Kyushu Island, is the best-known spa in Japan.  There are innumerable hot springs and solfataras in and around the place.  At all times of the day people may be seen lying on the seashore half buried enjoying the benefits of the hot springs which percolate through the sand.

            On our arrival we had a very welcome visit from the Rev. A. F. Watts, who came off by sampan almost as soon as the ship had anchored.  He had come all the way from the Seafarer’s Club at Kobe to tell us about recreational facilities and excursions that he had kindly arranged for us during our stay at that port.

            Two days were spent at Beppu where many pretty walks could be mistaken.  One of the sights is a very big image of Buddha made in concrete; so large that there is a temple inside.  On payment of the usual 10 sen you can enter the winding passage that leads to the temple, and another 10 sen procures the privilege of writing your name in the visitors book with one of the pointed brushes, which are used throughout Japan and China for writing.  Of more interest was the carving of the dainty little bamboo figures, which were displayed in the shops everywhere.  There was no need to go hungry on these sightseeing tours’ facilities were provided for the gourmet to boil an egg in the hot water as it issued from the ground.  It was noticed that the natives living near these springs used the steam for their cooking; near the back door a sort of chimney pot is seen sticking out of the ground on the top of which their pots and kettles are placed.

            We left this scene, where dragon’s breath issues from the earth, on St. George’s Day and continued our journey through the prettiest part of the Inland Sea.  Here it is studded with islets of endless variety in shape and size; none of them are bare or barren but clad in the greenest of trees and shrubs.  Our way led through channels, round promontories, passing by peaceful fishing villages or pine-clad hills.

            On the mainland there was plenty of evidence in the shape of factory chimneys of the westernisation that is going on in Japan.  Even no one of the small islands, Shisaka-Shima, on which there is a smelting plant of the Sumitomo Copper Co., there was a gigantic chimney emitting volumes of smoke.

            The peculiar atmosphere of the Inland Seas adds to its charm.  The moisture of the air is such that in the mornings and evenings the scenery is veiled in an opalescent hazy mist that imparts to it an exquisite softness.  The smoke from a passing steamer will remain suspended in the air like a grey scarf streamed in graceful folds.

           The narrow channels with their strong currents and counter currents make navigation very difficult.  We anchored for the night off Bisan-suito and arrived at Kobe in the evening if May 24th.

 

Kobe

           As we entered the fine harbour of Kobe, we caught sight of the large shipyards and modern docks, which make it, rank amongst the great ports of the East.  It was first opened to foreign trade in 1867 ad has grown in the last decade by leaps and bounds.  There are flourmills, sugar refineries, and many other industrial interests, but we found Moto-machi, the shopping street, of most interest.  Here can be bought the colourful kimonos, the pretty parasols and all the novelties fashioned by the industrious hand craftsman or turned out by the busy factories of Japan, at a price with which the West cannot compete.

            A more picturesque name for this street is the Street of a Thousand Lanterns.  The name is no exaggeration; it is a very long street and on each lamp standard is eight little lanterns, which give a very pretty effect and produce a holiday spirit so that you feel you must buy souvenirs to take home.

            On the whole the town is rather drab like other large ports, but a walk of less than two miles leads to the country at the foot of the mountain range, which runs parallel with the coast.  The highest of these, Mount Maya, is just over 3000 feet, and near the summit is an old temple, screened by cryptomeria trees, which is worth a visit.  From here delightful walk along the crest of the range leads to Rokko-San, where the first golf course laid out in Japan was opened in 1904.

             Travel is easy and remarkable cheap; the district is well supplied with electric trams, railways, and funiculars up the mountain sides, but the roads are very bad for motoring as they are untarred and terribly dusty.

            Thanks to our good friend the Rev. A. F. Watts a trip was arranged to Kyoto.  The first part of the journey was by electric railway passing through Osaka, which is known as the Manchester of Japan ion account of its numerous cotton mills.  There are shipbuilding yards, ironworks and about 20,000 factories large and small, where every conceivable kind of merchandise is manufactured for expert as well as domestic consumption.

            Throughout the whole 47 miles the scenery is monotonous, the land is very flat except for the hills in the background hidden by the smoky haze from many chimneys; it is like one huge town all the way.  The one interesting feature was the sight of numerous silk fishes floating in the breeze from poles erected near the houses, indicating the anniversary of the Boy’s Festival on the fifth day of the fifth month.  One carp is hoisted for each son; a large one, perhaps 15 feet long, for the eldest down to a small one for the youngest.  The carp, which fights its way up swift streams, is held to be a fitting example for growing boys, signifying ambition, strength and the will to overcome difficulties.

            Arriving at Kyoto Central Station one has a feeling of disappointment at the modern appearance of a city that was founded in 798 A.D. and was the capital of Japan for more than a thousand years until, in 1868, the Emperor Meiji transferred the capital to Tokyo.  With a longer acquaintance this feeling is lost as one explores its byways, wanders over its hills, sees its old palaces and shrines, and its parks where cherry and azalea abound, or as one catches glimpses of old world gardens and quiet little houses nestling by the river sheltered from prying eyes behind green russet maple trees.

            It is a joy to wander round the shops at Kyoto and see the workmen (artists would be a better term) producing exquisite creations with the simplest of tools.  One will be seen painting a delicate pattern on a piece of Satsuma; another is making a damascened box on which a picture of their beloved Fujiyama is bound to appear.  Across the road an old man bends over his work fixing the pattern of fine wire on a vase before it receives the coatings of enamel, which, after several baking’s, will be a fine piece of cloisonnĂ©.  Next-door bronze is being inlaid with gold and silver, time is no object, and every groove is cut with the care that only a craftsman whose life is his work can bestow.  We were shown one piece, a tiny bronze jewel casket, which had taken five years to complete.

            Modern Japan is a land of contrasts; a stone’s throw from these quiet scenes there will be tram cars, motor buses, taxi cabs, motor lorries and swarms of bicycles traversing the streets with much honking of horns and ringing of bells.  One holds ones breath when a cyclist is seen riding along unconcernedly balancing several trays laden with bowls of soup and wonders why the mighty Barnum does not secure him for his circus.

            A familiar sight is the vendor of tofu (bean curd) parading the streets with his handbarrow, blowing the while a mournful note on his little horn.  At night these busy streets are ablaze with electric light, cinemas, dance halls and cafes competing with one another with their brilliant signs.

            There are contrasts in dress, too.  Most men wear European clothes or a shoddy Japanese substitute for them, but a few retain the more dignified national costume.  Girls in the picturesque kimono and obi walk forsaken the tasteful kimono are known as ‘mo ga’ a contraction of ‘modan gaaru’ (modern girl?).

           A wayside shrine forms another contrast amongst all this evidence of the adoption of Western thought; a reminder that here is a people with the same mechanical contrivances but perhaps with different ideals, different aims, from the British.

            April, the month of the cherry blossom, is also the month of the Cherry Dance in Japan.  This dance incorporates a few select subjects of the classical drama, namely the “No,” which originated in the early part of the Ashikaga period (1335/1573) under the special patronage of the Shogun.  Therefore all the scenes represent the places associated with the plays of the “No” drama and simultaneously display the beauty characteristic of the Cherry Dance.

            Kyoto is the place to see the Cherry Dance performed for here is the famous Gion Dancing and Music School where the geishas are trained.  The Japanese call the dance the Miyako Odori and the pretty staff includes 28 dancers, 1 star singer, 12 samisen players, 5 tsuzumi (hand drum) players, 5 taiko (small drum) and kane (bell) players, 1 o-daiko (Bigger drum) player and 1 fue (flute) player, forming a company of 52 in all.  There are four companies with a total of 208 girls who change their turn every four days during the period of the performance.

            Many from the Ship took the opportunity to see this sight so typical of the land we were visiting.  Arriving at the picturesque theatre, we were entertained at the Tea Ceremony.

            The tea ceremonial is based on contentedness and quietude, under the principles of courtesy and decency and its keynote is simplicity.  The room is tastefully arranged to give the guest a feeling of harmony and with mind at ease he gazes at a landscape garden or inspects with pleasure writings, paintings, tea utensils, burning incense, or looks at ceremonial flower arrangement and appreciates the taste of tea. We were ushered into a large room, where others had already taken their place, and seated ourselves at small lacquer tables.  As soon as we were composed, two or three pretty little geishas, no more than children, entered with a little shuffling run, bowed courteously before us with an offering of green tea and a plate of cakes.  The tea, in a basin, was deep green in colour and all frothy, made from the expensive tea powder, very different from the pale green tea commonly used in Japan.  This we drank with more curiosity than relish; it was bitter to the taste but the after effects were refreshing.  The Japanese themselves drink it with an approaching sucking noise, which does not harmonise with the ceremony.  It did not appear to be the thing to eat the cakes at the table.  These were wrapped up in a piece of paper provided for the purpose and taken to another room, where we sat in silent contemplation of a few objects d’art until the doors of the auditorium were opened. 

            Finally we were ushered to our seats in a small gallery.  The theatre was square, one side formed the stage; on the right hand side, on the same level as the stage, the singers and samisen players were seated in two rows, opposite to them on the left were those with drums and cymbals, and the fourth side was the gallery.  This was mostly filled with foreigners, the natives sat on their haunches in the centre of the square.

            Perhaps he most striking thing of all was unison of samisen players, every hand held at the same angle, the posture of the body unchanged throughout the performance, and the movement of every hand together.

           The dancers entered on either side near the gallery and passed in front of the musicians on the stage gay with the most elaborate scenery.  The dresses were incredibly bright, blues and pinks such as catch the eyes of little children, yet in this setting it seemed a harmony of colour.      

            The performers talk as well as dance, the male parts being taken by girls speaking in a little deeper voice.  Some of the eight scenes with which we were regaled were humorous as well as spectacular.  An episode entitled “A Turret of Beard” was the easiest to follow as it was of the nature of a harlequinade.

           On a certain occasion of the Grand Thanksgiving Festival following an Imperial Enthronement Ceremony, a man with a dignified looking beard is sought to carry a sacred halberd.  Finally a man, who is thought to be suitable for the function, is found in a suburb of Kyoto.  The newly chosen halberd bearer goes home to tell his wife of the honour, feeling as proud as a peacock.  Then he begins to fix nicely his precious beard and to get a new costume.  In the mean time he starts a quarrel with his wife concerning his outfit and sends her off.  A fellow comes to tell him that his wife, who is furiously angry, will attack him with spears and halberds, being aided by her friends.  Accordingly he equips his beard with a turret, but he is conquered. The turret is destroyed and his beard is pulled off with a hair tweezer.

            The final scene of the Cherry Dance, which is the prettiest of all, represents the celebrated Kiyomizu Temple, sacred to Kwannon, and its charming cherry blossoms.  This temple is built over the brink of a precipice in Higashi-Yama (East Mountain), commanding an extensive, glorious view.  All the year round a constant stream of pilgrims visits it.  The present scene is designed in allusion to a famous “No” drama entitled “Yuya”. 

            The beauteous Yuya was born at a little town of Ikeda, Totomi Province.  She is such a fascinating belle that Taira-no-Munemori, the second son of the all-powerful Kiyomori, falls in love with her and he feels as if he were ascending to Heaven.  The mother has been ill a long time, yet he would not let her see the patient.  One day a messenger comes to Yuya with a letter telling her that the days of her mother are numbered.  Nevertheless Munemori would not allow her to go off and forces her to accompany him to the Kiyomizu Temple to enjoy a cherry party.  There she composes a sensational poem as she notices a few falling leaves, with which her Lord gets sharply moved and permits her to go home.  Yuya attributes this to the divine help of the Kiyomizu Kwannon and joyfully starts to visit her beloved mother.  Banzai! Banzai! Banzai!

            The performance lasted about an hour and it was dark when we got outside.  A very pretty sight met the eye, the trees decorated with paper lanterns and the building lit as in mediaeval times with burning braziers.  Making our way along theatre Street, like fairyland with its gay red lanterns, we felt that we had had a glimpse of old Japan and wondered how long it would be before modernization would sweep this all away.

            Not far from this scene is Maruyama Park, artistically laid out and in a fine setting with the verdant ranges of Higashiyama in the background.  The park is famous for its cherry trees, especially one aged tree whose sweeping branches have to be supported by props.  It is known as Gion-no-Yokakura or Gion’s Night Cherry blossoms for it looks particularly beautiful at night when illuminated by torchlight with pretty paper lanterns hanging from its boughs.

            There are evidences of attempts to preserve the picturesque ness of old Japan in some of the more modern settings.  The Miyako Hotel at Kyoto is a good example.  It is up to date with electric lifts and bedrooms with baths in European style; yet it is set in a hillside and you can step out of a door on the top floor into a secluded garden where there is a ceremonial tearoom; a one storied wooden building fitting perfectly into the quiet harmony of the scene.  As you sit in the dining room, which is on the fourth floor, you can look across to the mountains in the distance on one side whilst, just outside the window on the other side of the room, a tiny waterfall splashes into a miniature lake where fat carp and goldfish swim lazily in the sun in the midst of an exquisite little Japanese garden.  

            One of those mountains in the distance is Mt. Hiyei, where the Rev. Watts took a party from the ship.  The following account of their experiences written was by E. A. Adams, one of our most ardent sightseers, tells us of the interesting journey they made.

            “Arriving at Kyoto we were glad of a breath of fresh air before taking the bus to the tram depot at Demachi-Yanagi.  Soon after boarding the tram we were passing “Shugakuin” (Imperial Detached Palace) noted for its beautiful gardens and shortly arrived at the terminus at Yase set in delightful surroundings with a recreation park where we saw our first cherry trees in full bloom.  The delicate perfume of these combined with the musical tinkle of the little waterfall and the running stream made us regret that time would not permit any lingering.”

             “In addition to our party, a number of Japanese school girls in their regulation sailor costumes managed to find accommodation in the car of the funicular railway in which the ascent (approx 2800 feet) was accomplished in 11 minutes, the ever increasing panorama that opened beneath us giving rise to many expressions of delight.  From Shimei-ga-dake, which is the name of the upper station, a few minutes walk took us to the suspension trolley car, a perilous looking contraption that takes you for an aerial trip across a deep mountain valley to Mt. Hiyei.  Here again we could fully admire the contour and beauty of the landscape, while the air at this altitude acted on us like a tonic.”

             “At last we were permitted to use our legs, and by a pleasant winding path through pine woods, the trees of which were by way of being giants, we crossed to the other side of the mountain.  A halt was made at the Buddhist Daiko-Do or large auditorium, where besides admiring the 300 year old wooden structure, we also had a group photograph taken.  Prior to this we had passed the Shakado Temple, many such temples being situated hereabouts, and soon after resuming our walk we arrived at the hotel we had lunch.  The effects of fresh air and exercise were apparent in the way we attacked our victuals, while sufficient time was allowed for the necessary after meal rest.  This gave an opportunity to appreciate the size of Lake Biwa, which lay below us, and the huge task of the engineers if the proposal to reclaim the land by draining is carried into effect.  Should that happen then the little ferry boats, such as we used to reach Otsu, will be a thing of the past, and ploughs will traverse the land over which they steamed.”

             “It took us until 3 o’clock to reach the jetty at Sakamoto by way of another funicular railway down the mountain side and then by walking a distance of 2 miles.  The half hour’s wait for the boat was enlivened by the antics of some village children under the leadership of a few of our royal Marines!”

            “Onboard the ferry the Japanese custom of squatting on the deck was improved upon, and the little boat looked quite like the “Suffolk” on a make and men afternoon!  Those who remained awake saw the curious bamboo fish traps, the nets of which were being adjusted as we passed through one of the few gaps left for traffic, the whole arrangement being similar to that used by the fisherman around the islands of Greece.

            “To return to Kyoto Station two different types of conveyances were necessary, taxis, and a combined street car and electric railway that attained a speed of 40 to 50 miles per hour when running under the latter conditions, a speed calculated to produce quite a thrill round the steeply banked bends, especially when one realises that the rails, unlike ours in England, are only pinned to the sleepers.”

            “The last stage of our journey to Sannomiya Station, Kobe, ended yet another pleasant day of exploration, and one that will always be recalled in future years at cherry blossom time.”

            Whilst in Kyoto one or two were fortunate enough to go to Kameoka and experience the thrill of shooting the Hodzu Rapids down to Arashiyama (Mist Mountain), another place famed for its cherry blossom.  Further off is Nara with its beautiful park in which the deer are so tame that they will feed from the visitor’s hand.  The place has its roots in antiquity; Nara was the capital of Japan, even before Kyoto, for the eighty years from 708 to 794 A.D.

            Nearer to Kobe is Arima, where the Radium Springs are found.  A very pleasant day was spent visiting the source of these springs and making our way down to Takarazuka, an amusement resort which combines the amenities to Convent Garden, Regents Park and Margate; for here is the large Opera house where modern Japanese plays are performed, fine Zoological Gardens, a large Amusement Park and first class Dance Hall.  

            Kobe itself has an amusement quarter-Minatogawa Park, better known to foreigners as Theatre Street.  It is a very popular resort with theatres, cinemas, cafes and shops of all kinds.  There is even a 10 and 20 sen store on the lines of Woolworth’s; but Japan can go one better than Woolworth’s for value.  Nobody has yet bought real pearls in that store, whereas, in the streets of Kobe, you can select your own oyster for the small charge of 50 sen (about 7d.), have it opened and if it contains a pear, even one as large as a pigeon’s egg, it is yours.  One lucky speculator from the “Suffolk” got three in succession as large as Pusser’s peas.

            At the other end of the town is a very pretty avenue gay with flowering shrubs, which leads to the wooded hill down which the Nunobiki waterfalls tumble.  These are twin waterfalls one above the other.  The Odaki (male fall) is 82 feet high and the Me-daki (female fall) is 43 feet high.  There is nothing very imposing about the falls themselves but the surroundings and views are very pretty.  Another pleasant retreat, commanding a charming view of the harbour and Inland Sea, Awajishima Isle and the mountains of Kli Province, is Suwayama Park.  The hill on which this park is situated is popularly called ‘Venus Hill’ on account of the stone monument erected in honour of a French astronomer M. Johnson, who took observations of Venus at that spot in 1873.

            The British Residents very soon made us welcome ashore.  In fact they showed clearly they were glad to see us, by requesting the Ambassador at Tokyo to ask the Commander-in-Chief if he would allow the ship to stay until after the Jubilee instead of leaving on May 3rd, as arranged in the original programme.

             The day after we arrived the ladies gave a dance to the Ship’s Company which was a tremendous success; so much was it appreciated that it was decided to give an entertainment to return thanks for the unstinted welcome they had extended to us.  The ‘return match’ was a dance and cabaret show in which some of our old favourites of concert party fame did their share in making the evening merrily.

            We also had the pleasure of fellowship with our Japanese hosts.  The Mayor of Kobe and his secretary lunched with Captain Manners, and the Deputy Governor, his Mother and family, and several other important officials came to our farewell party.  On April 29th it was birthday of the Emperor of Japan so we dressed the ship for the occasion.

             We also met the Japanese on the football field.  As their best soccer players were on tour only two games were played, our opponents could only raise nine players so McGuire offered to play centre half for them.  This equalised things very well for the game ended in a draw 1-1.  The Boys who, after a hard struggle, eventually scored and secured a win 1-0 played another good match against a different team.

            The second occasion o which we dressed ship was May 6th to celebrate the Silver Jubilee of our beloved King George V.  A thanksgiving service was held onboard, and at noon we manned ship, fired a salute, and gave three heartfelt cheers for his Majesty.  The silk ensign presented by the ladies of the County of Suffolk was flown on this occasion.  In the list of those to whom Jubilee Medals were awarded we were pleased to see several names from “Suffolk” including our Captain and our Commissioned Gunner, Mr. H. Hogben.

            Ashore a party of Officers attended the service conducted by the Bishop of Kobe, afterwards going to the Consulate to drink the loyal toasts, and then to the Klobe Club for a reception in honour of the occasion given by the British Residents.  In the afternoon children’s sports were held at which the youngsters thoroughly enjoyed themselves.  Commander Whitaker represented the ship on this occasion and, in a very interesting speech, spoke to the children about the reason of the Jubilee.  His concluding remarks were addressed to the grown ups as well as the children; they are worthy of record: -

             “I want to ask all of you to do something, and it is this ‘Before you go to bed tonight, say a short prayer to your God to thank him for giving us such a noble King and ask him of he would be so kind to spare him to us for many years because we love him’”.

            We finished up our stay in Japan with an at home onboard to which about two hundred British resident came.  The two hours we spent together seemed all too brief and, as the party ended with the singing of Auld Lang Syne, we could not help feeling our fellow countrymen we were leaving behind in a foreign land while we were so shortly to start for England, Home and Beauty.  As they went ashore they saw the pretty spectacle of the ship illuminated for the occasion.  They completed the festivities with a dance at the Shioya Country club where we would have been welcome guests but, unfortunately, the path of duty did not lead that way, and at 2030 the anchor was weighed and we steamed out of harbour for Hong Kong.

 

Hong Kong, Shanghai, Home

            It was flat calm all the way to Hong Kong and the weather was perfect, only it got warmer every day until, by the time we reached our destination, the thermometer had risen 36F and we were once again in moist tropical heat.  One evening during the voyage the Captain gave us an interesting talk on “Royalty and the Royal Line of the World” in which he traced the descent of King George V and spoke of his wonderful personal influence in guiding the nation-an influence, truly wise and good, which no man could exert were it not that he looked to God for guidance.

             A full power trial was carried out.  Attaining our maximum speed of 32 knots helped to us on our way and at 0800 May 11th the ship steamed through the Lyemun Pass and was able to go along side before the Dockyard closed for the weekend

             Owing to the hot weather the favourite pastime at hong Kong was bathing at Repulse Bay.  None tried walking up the Peak; if they wanted to reach the cooling breezes at the top they went up by the cable tramway.  Onboard there was much activity disembarking and taking in stores.  In the midst of all this we proceeded to sea to carry out exercises, and also provided the Naval royal guard when on May 17th.  His Excellency the Governor Sir William Peel, K.C.M.G., K.C.B. left the Colony.

            The conclusion of this narrative finds us at Hong Kong preparing for the 10,000 mile journey before us.  The rumour that the Chinese treasures for the exhibition at Burlington House were to be sent in the “Suffolk” proves to be true so after docking, our bows will be turned towards Shanghai.  Having collected the treasure with two Chinese Secretaries to look after it, we return to Hong Kong and embark on what the Commander-in-Chief described in his farewell speech as: - 

“The best cruise of all-to Portsmouth Town!”

 

Arrive                                            Place                                       Leave

                                                                   5th June                                        Hong Kong                              3rd June

                                                                  11th June                                        Shanghai                                 8th June

                                                                  11th June                                       Hong Kong                             13th June

                                                                  18th June                                        Singapore                               19th June

                                                                  20th June                                          Penang                                  20th June

                                                                 

Act as target ship for H.M.S. Dorsetshire

 

                                                                 25th June                                        Colombo                                  29th June

                                                                 6th July                                             Aden                                       7th July

                                                                 12th July                                           Suez                                       12th July

                                                                 12th July                                          Port Said                                 13th July

                                                                 16th July                                           Malta                                      17th July

                                                                 21st July                                          Gibraltar                                   22nd July

                                                                 26th July                                      PORTSMOUTH                          

 

 

“Dear Little Three Funnelled Cruiser”

(Sung to the tune of ‘That Dear church in the Valley

With Ldg. Sea. Heyler’s apologies to the Composer thereof)

 

Our Commission’s now gone, and we’re looking ahead,

We can hear that familiar old sound,

Rolling home o’er the Sea, being played by the band,

For our three-funnelled ship’s homeward bound.

There’s a dear little deck in the Dockyard,

Where we hope very soon to arrive;

I can picture us there with never a care

As over the gangway we dive.

It was there that we first joined the “Suffolk”

And it’s there we’ll leave her it seems,

As on leave we go, we’ll leave her it seems,

As on leave we go, we’ll all wave “Cheerio”

To that three funneled ship of our dreams.

 

 

Everything we obtain for this site is shown on the site, we do not have any more photos, crew lists or further information on any of the ships.

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